Dining Out:

Anyone living in La Crescenta or La Cañada Flintridge noticed the remarkable transformation that took place at the old Chor’s Chinese take-out place at the busy intersection of Ocean View and Foothill. Over the course of a few weeks, the exterior became a mini-Eden of colorful flowers, twinkle lights and a gurgling fountain. But what about the interior and the food?

It took me a year, but I found out. While there are a few distinctive items I might go back for, overall, the Garden Grill is a mediocre Middle Eastern restaurant with high prices and only adequate service.

I went for lunch and for dinner. The two menus are exactly the same — 15 different kebabs, five stews and a smattering of salads and appetizers. For lunch I tried the fesenjoon ($11.95), one of my favorite Persian dishes. This is a pureed pomegranate and walnut stew with chunks of chicken. It is a thick, dark brown bowl of semi-sweet deliciousness, reminding me slightly of Mexican mole. At the Garden Grill, it arrived hot and was pretty tasty. But my concern was the oil slick that formed as it cooled and the fact that the chicken was overcooked giving it that unpleasant quality of making your molars stick together.

The accompanying Shirazi salad ($4.95) added a fresh crunch but I couldn’t help but think, “These are no farmers market vegetables.” The tomatoes were under ripe and the onions too strong. The cucumbers, parsley and olive oil dressing were nice though. The rice was not special nor was the unheated pita bread.

What did thrill me was the iced tea ($1.95). Unsweetened and uniquely aromatic, it complemented the meal beautifully. When I asked my waiter what kind it was, the response was a curt, “It’s Persian.” And when I asked another about desserts, he rather testily snapped, “Ice cream!”

I also had to go inside to request more tea and a to-go container. The service is quick at first, but then they forget about you. I guess I could cut them some slack. They’re the owner’s teenage sons.

Do not sit outside. The bubbling fountain and chirping canaries are charming, but they compete with the constant stream of exhaust-belching dump trucks carrying debris from nearby flood basins. Indoors, the mood is warmer and more relaxing but not exactly elegant. Large Persian rugs, mahogany tables and linen napkins juxtapose with green walls, neo-Tuscan furniture and velvet paintings.

Going back for dinner, I was curious to try another one of their stews. Alas, none, but the fesenjoon was available. So we all partook of the specials advertised on banners outside. “shish kebab or kubideh plates for $8.95!” It’s just what you’d expect — meat, rice, salad and a grilled tomato and pepper. The chicken was the most tender and juicy. Be sure to mention the sign, otherwise the prices are $9.95 for kubideh (spiced ground meat kebab) and $14.95 for shish kebab (chunks of meat).

Once again, it was the drink I was most excited about. It’s not easy to find Mythos, a beer we fell in love with in Greece. They have it here, ice cold and poured into a tall glass ($4.95).

There aren’t a whole lot of Middle Eastern restaurants in La Crescenta/La Cañada. So if you live here and you’re craving a kebab, this is a decent choice. But if you want better variety, quality and service, go down to Glendale proper.

Get in touch LISA DUPUY has been cooking since she was 5 and knows her remoulade from her ratatouille. She can be reached at ldupuy@aol.com. Get in touch LISA DUPUY has been cooking since she was 5 and knows her remoulade from her ratatouille. She can be reached at ldupuy@aol.com.