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Column: Palapas Marisqueria & Sushi’s Mexican sushi showcases this fusion style

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Of all the food trends to expand in Orange County in the past 12 months, Mexican sushi might be the most polarizing.

Defined by cheesy deep-fried rice rolls of carne asada, chicken, shrimp and more that are then covered in either sweet ponzu, spicy mayo or both, the part-fusion, part-bastardization is what happens when a Japanese culinary tradition founded on subtlety gets dropped into the raucous late-night mariscos restaurants of Sinaloa.

At the new Palapas Marisqueria & Sushi on Tustin Street in Orange, Mexican sushi is technically an afterthought to the restaurant’s ceviches, aguachiles, hot waitresses and live banda music.

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Yet, its Palapas Roll embodies all that is holy about the style: beef, chicken, shrimp, crab, cream cheese and two kinds of chiles are rolled in nori and rice then deep fried and covered with ponzo and chipotle aoli.

The usual Japanese condiments – ginger, wasabi, soy sauce – are not needed here. Just order a michelada instead.

Palapas Marisqueria & Sushi is at 331 N. Tustin St., Orange. For more information, call (714) 633-1337.

SARAH BENNETT is a freelance journalist covering food, drink, music, culture and more. She is the former food editor at L.A. Weekly and a founding editor of Beer Paper L.A. Follow her on Twitter @thesarahbennett.

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