Almost gone, but not forgotten
Noaki Schwartz
For Beatrice Thomas, 85, losing the Cannery Restaurant on Sunday
will mean having to let go of one of the last tangible memories of her
husband.
From the moment she stepped into her dockside home as a newlywed back
in 1943, her existence in Newport was intertwined with the life of the
factory. She is now one of the last living people associated with the
founders of the old cannery.
Back in the day, her husband, Tommy, was one of the three managers of
the canning plant and a firm believer in fate. Within three days of
meeting Beatrice in San Francisco, he proposed. It seemed, to him, that
everything had just fallen into place. They were both Greek and one of
their parents were from the same small Mediterranean village.
It took her a little longer. At first she thought of him as “a little
pushy,” she said, until his clever sense of humor and delightful optimism
for life overtook her sensibilities. And so she said “yes” and moved down
south into “an 800-square-foot house on the canal” in a little seaside
town called Newport.
Everyday from her kitchen window she could hear and see the factory’s
steam whistle blow. It was the signal that the fishing boats had drifted
in with their catch. The legions of boats came in at all hours of the
day, at times dragging Tommy out of bed at 3 a.m. to help unload the
fish.
In those days, before pollution killed the fish, they caught tuna,
swordfish, mackerel, sardines and anchovies. During the summer they
mainly fished for tuna and in winter, mackerel. Newport was even called
“Mackerel haven.”
While the mackerel could simply be grounded up and put into cans, tuna
required a lot more work. The fish were thrown onto long tables
surrounded by women dressed in white uniforms stained from hours of
deboning. They wore caps and stood in boots in shallow puddles of
seawater mixed in with pungent odors, Thomas remembered.
At that time, 110 people worked at the cannery and women were paid 5
cents per case. It was the middle of World War II and help was scarce, as
was the level of trust. Thomas said commercial fishermen had to carry
passports to go in and out of the harbor.
“During the 1930s and 1940s they were the only major employers in
Newport when the summer tourist season subsided,” she said.
Despite the war that raged on on foreign shores, however, the three
men who ran the cannery -- Walter Longmoor, Jerry Spangler and Tommy
Thomas -- were great friends and never fought.
“It was like a family,” Thomas said. “It was beautiful.”
Immediately after the war when help returned, business boomed. In
1954, 2,694 fisherman caught 72 tons of albacore. But with the increase
in business and residents in Newport, the waters gradually became
uninhabitable for the fish.
The catch dropped so dramatically that in the summer of 1966 the
cannery stopped running and was eventually shut down. Finally, in the
early 1970s, the old building was completely torn down.
It was about this time that a group of enterprising World War II
veterans stepped in and decided to rebuild the cannery and turn it into a
restaurant. Tommy was pleased to see that the place, which had for so
long rooted him in Newport Beach, was going to be reborn to a new
generation, Thomas said.
As the months of construction wore on, the new cannery partners
prepared to host an opening party in 1973. As the building neared final
completion, Tommy suffered a stroke. Thomas said she attended the party,
“in body but not in spirit.”
Soon after the opening of the restaurant, her husband passed away.
“He gave so much of himself to the cannery,” she said.
After depending on Tommy for both financial support and companionship
for 30 years, Thomas has had to face an almost equivalent amount of time
on her own. She has filled her time tutoring children, teaching literacy
and taking language classes at Orange Coast College.
Thomas also has collected and carefully pieced together yellowing
newspaper clippings and old black-and-white photographs chronicling her
husband’s time at the cannery. The two photo albums never leave her hands
-- they are priceless.
Someday, she said, she plans to write a book about this piece of
history.
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