Dining Review

Stephen Santacroce

Orange County, long known as the restaurant mecca of family style

chains such as the Olive Garden or Chili’s, is finally coming into its

own as a destination for fine dining. Chefs like Pascal Olhats and Mark

Goodell have established their eateries as some of the best in Southern

California.

It’s no wonder that the area has started to attract celebrity chefs

eager to cater to local residents’ increasingly sophisticated palates.

Joachim Splichal of Patina fame was one of the first to venture in with

his incredibly successful Pinot Provence, and most recently we are

treated to Roy Yamaguchi’s Pacific Rim delicacies at Roy’s in Newport

Beach.

Trained at the Culinary Institute of America, Tokyo-born Yamaguchi

apprenticed at such notable restaurants as L’Ermitage and Michaels before

opening his own 385 North on La Cienega in Los Angeles. Roy moved to

Hawaii in 1988 and opened the first Roy’s in Honolulu to critical

acclaim. The Roy’s empire now includes several Hawaiian locales, as well

as restaurants in Guam, Tokyo, Pebble Beach and Scottsdale.

Despite the Asian and Hawaiian influence evident in the menus and all

of Roy’s literature, the decor is disappointingly Southern Californian.

Light woods are predominate in the furniture and trim, giving the place a

somewhat modern Danish look. A friend dared to remark that it reminded

her of an IKEA showroom. Now that might be going a bit far, the place is

actually quite lovely, it just doesn’t evoke any particular atmosphere or

sense of locale.

The help at Roy’s is quite enthusiastic. As you’re ushered to your

table, passing members of the wait staff will greet you with a hearty

“Aloha, welcome to Roy’s.” Even the hostess, who barely glanced up from

the reception desk when we checked in, got into the act as she seated us,

launching into an exuberant monologue and gushing over several of the

desserts. She was so good I felt like applauding.

Applaud I did as we worked our way through executive chef Pacifico

Mata’s inspired menu. The two-page menu features a page of regular

dishes, and a page of daily specials. Among the regular dishes are

several dim sum-style appetizers, including tasty lobster pot stickers

($9.95). The dumplings contain a filling generously laced with lobster

meat, and are fried crisp before being served with light soy dipping

sauce.

Chicken spring rolls ($7.95) were also quite good dipped in the

mandarin orange syrup that accompanied them. My favorite appetizer was a

special: garlic-seared calamari served with Asian spaetzle. The calamari

is quickly cooked with tomatoes, broccoli and shiitake mushrooms, and

served in a tasty soy-based sauce with small spaetzle - pasta-like

dumplings about the size of large peas. The combination is truly unique

and flavorful.

Roy’s also offers several individual-size pizzas that can make a nice

light entree or be shared as a first course. A good choice would be the

tiger shrimp and pancetta pizza ($7.95), made with smoked Gouda cheese

and a red pepper sauce.

The entrees show off the Asian-influenced Pacific Rim cuisine that has

made Yamaguchi famous. In particular, Roy’s emphasis on fresh, locally

caught fish provide some of the menu’s highlights.

On the specials list one night was a delicious steamed Alaskan halibut

($22.95). The fish is first seared then coated with an Asian-style pesto

and finished in the steamer. Just before serving hot peanut oil is

drizzled over the dish for an added layer of flavor. The Asian pesto,

which is made with cilantro and macadamia nuts instead of the more

traditional basil and pine nuts, has a fresh herbal note that brings out

the delicate flavor of the halibut.

Another good choice is the blackened ahi tuna ($24.95), a thick sushi

grade steak crusted with black pepper and served rare over Asian

vegetables with a soy mustard sauce. I was delivered this dish by

accident instead of an ahi special on the menu, but I liked black pepper

crust and mustard sauce better than the herb coated version I originally

ordered. I should point out that the mistake was corrected immediately

when I pointed it out to our waiter.

Occasionally a dish misses the mark, like the bacon-wrapped scallops

($24.95). The scallops are wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon before

roasting, which imparts a great flavor and keeps them moist. They’re then

served over a delicious red pepper and tomato risotto; a hearty, rich

rice that brings out the flavors of the bacon and scallops. At this point

the dish is perfect, and the final addition of a dollop of tangy shrimp

ceviche only detracts from the overall effect.

Roy’s features a diverse but expensive wine list. Most of the wines

featured by the glass are bottled under Roy’s private label, including a

truly terrible chardonnay that at $9 a glass is downright embarrassing.

By the bottle, the restaurant offers several unique choices, such as the

delicious Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand ($32).

Several desserts are offered to finish off your dining experience, but

you really needn’t go any farther than Roy’s signature chocolate souffle

($8.50). As you cut into this rich treat, warm melted chocolate oozes out

and melds with the raspberry sauce and vanilla ice cream served

alongside. It’s truly irresistible.

Despite the lack of Hawaiian ambience in the decor, the Asian-inspired

cuisine and cheerful staff at Roy’s will make you welcome the latest

foray by a respected and world-renowned chef into Newport Beach.

What: Roy’s

Where: 453 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach (at Fashion Island)

When: Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11

p.m.

How much: Expensive

Phone: (949) 640-7697