Dining Review

Stephen Santacroce

Walking the streets of a typical Italian city you’ll notice plenty of

establishments with the word “Bar” over the door. Enter for a cocktail

and you might be a bit surprised. While most of these places will serve

you a glass of wine or aperitif, they are really more a spot to get a

snack or an espresso between meals.

Glass showcases are filled with panini, small sandwiches with a few

slices of meat and cheese, and the menu might also list small calzones

and pizzas as well.

Francoli Gourmet Emporio in Fashion Island has built on this tradition

and now offers panini, pasta plates, salads and other tasty treats to

hungry shoppers in need of a brief respite.

When Francoli first opened in 1994, it was primarily a specialty store

carrying gourmet food products, Italian pottery and upscale kitchenware.

A deli counter offered sandwiches and espresso drinks along with sliced

meats and cheeses, and a wine bar along one wall allowed one to taste

many of the fine Italian wines available for sale.

Well, management noticed the lines forming at the deli counter and

about a year ago the store was remodeled. An outdoor patio was added for

al fresco dining and half of the interior was converted to a dining area.

A small cooking area was added allowing the chefs to prepare a limited

menu of pasta dishes.

Francoli has always had a nice selection of cured meats and cheeses

available for purchase, and these are now featured in several of the

antipasti dishes. A mixed plate of meat and cheese is served in three

sizes ($9.99/$16.99/$21.99, respectively), and features some excellent

salamis along with a selection of mixed olives and some fresh bread. I’ve

made a light meal of the small plate; you’ll definitely want to share the

larger sizes with some friends.

I like the bresaola plate (same prices and sizes as the mixed meats),

that features salty air-cured beef, an Italian specialty, along with

arugula, lemon, extra-virgin olive oil and some fresh parmigiana cheese.

The peppery greens compliment the salty beef and sharp cheese, with a

nice accent added by the fresh lemon juice. Other favorites are the

caprese salad ($7.99), fresh tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil

shards all drizzled with olive oil, or the bruschetta ($7.50), toasted

bread slices rubbed with garlic and topped with some of the same tomatoes

and basil and a sprinkle of olive oil.

Francoli offers several salads, most of which can serve as either a

first course or a light meal. I like the spinach salad ($6.50), which

tops fresh spinach with some of the tasty bresaola mentioned earlier and

is served with a tangy mustard dressing. Another good choice is a

variation on an Italian classic that features white beans and tuna fish

(8.50) tossed with some onion and capers and dressed with good Italian

olive oil.

Francoli imports all of their olive oils and usually has an excellent

selection available for sale. The panini featured at Francoli are larger

than those found at Italian bars, but are just as tasty. Some of these

are served cold and others are grilled, like the prosciutto and fontina

cheese sandwich ($7.99), which is sort of an Italian version of a grilled

ham and cheese. Fresh basil leaves are added to the mix and the whole

thing is served on savory grilled focaccia bread.

Non-meat eaters have several choices, including a sandwich that

features grilled eggplant, peppers and onions ($7.99) mixed with some

goat cheese and served with the same focaccia. Another good choice that

has its roots in the heart of Italy is a sauteed spinach panini ($7.99),

that combines spinach with sun-dried tomatoes and melted fontina cheese.

The latest additions to the menu are the pasta dishes, and I think

this is where there is still some room for improvement. Spaghetti or

penne is offered with either a sauce of fresh tomatoes and basil or a

tomato cream sauce ($7.99). Both varieties are flavorful and have just

enough sauce to enhance the pasta without drowning it.

I was disappointed with the chicken ravioli offered as a special

($12.95). The chicken filling in the pasta was very good but was

overpowered by a heavy cream sauce laced with cooked spinach and pieces

of roasted chicken breast. The sauce was supposed to be flavored with

limoncillo, a lemon-flavored liquor, but I couldn’t taste it.

Antonio Moretti, Francoli’s manager, buys all of the store’s wines,

and is rightfully proud of his collection. Many of the fine wines, most

from the Piedmont region of Italy, are offered by the glass. Try the

gemme or the amarone, two excellent but lesser-known reds.

Wine tastings are scheduled on a regular basis to help familiarize

customers with their excellent selections.

Francoli Emporio Gourmet is a fine choice for a snack or a light meal.

I like to stop by in the evenings, when they sometimes have Italian

singers performing, have a glass of wine and maybe some antipasti or a

plate of pasta, and pretend I’m staring out at a picturesque Italian

piazza.

WHAT: Francoli

WHERE: 1133 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach (in Fashion Island)

WHEN: Monday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 10

a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.

HOW MUCH: Moderate

PHONE: (949) 721-1289