DINING REVIEW

Kathy Mader

I initially hesitated to write up this restaurant because it is one of my

favorite everyday places and I didn’t want to do anything to add to its

popularity. But Doria’s Haus of Pizza, on the corner of Adams Avenue and

Harbor Boulevard in Costa Mesa, doesn’t need my help to bolster its

reputation as a great eatery.

Stuck behind a big theater in a little strip mall, Doria’s Haus of Pizza

has been at this location since January 1981 and is a favorite among

locals. The Haus is named after the Doria family with Haus as a tribute

to their German mother, Hilde.

However, there is nothing German about their food. This place is far more

notable for the food than it is for the decor. Its lack of decor better

describes the place. Old place mats, old and new newspaper clippings,

buttons, bumper stickers, postcards and neon signs surround you. Tables

are packed in pretty tightly, so much so that you are obligated to at

least greet the people at the table next to you.

This is a place where you go wearing whatever you have on and still may

be overdressed. But these are not bad things. This is the kind of place

where expressions like “good grinds,” “chow down” and “killer ‘za” really

apply.

But here’s the real news: The Haus has the best pizza in town. Period. I

know this is a bold statement and I don’t make it lightly. This is

exactly what you imagine when you say let’s go out for pizza: crust that

will please both former residents of the Windy City and those of the Big

Apple, sauce that has the right amount of pizazz, and any fresh topping

you can think of.

Of course, almost every topping under the sun is available, and this

pizza is just as good the next day! Prices range from $5.05 for a 10-inch

cheese pizza to $18.95 for the 18-inch Haus Special. There is really no

more to say about it, other than try it. It is the best.

My mother feels the same way about the Haus’ meatballs. Simply the best

in town. And if you don’t agree, good. One less person in line.

The Haus offers all of the Italian comfort foods you could hope for, from

a broiling-hot eggplant Parmesan ($5.35, $6.80 with sausages) and lasagna

($5.85), to Italian subs ($3.95) and fettuccine Alfredo ($6.20). The

linguine and clams recipe ($6.20) is one that I have tried to emulate

both at home -- to no avail -- and in ordering at other restaurants. I

have had fresher clams at other restaurants, and I have eaten pasta made

only an hour before, but whatever the combo of olive oil and fresh

parsley in this recipe, they nailed it, and I haven’t found any

family-style Italian restaurant that makes the dish with better flavor.

The pizza bread ($1.55, plus 45 cents a topping) is an excellent

before-the-movie snack and should satiate any cravings for the pizza you

might have when time is pressing.

The Haus specialty, panzerotti ($6.30), is very similar to a deep-fried

calzone and only available on Wednesdays and Thursdays. This entree will

bring fear to the heart of anyone who’s ever read anything about clogged

arteries, but must be tried at least once for the flagrant violation of

all that is healthy.

Deep-fried cheese in deep-fried dough stuffed with sausage or pepperoni

makes my heart skip a beat. Quite literally, I’m afraid. Counteract that

with a Haus antipasto salad. This huge salad, loaded with cheese,

mushrooms and olives, says it’s for two people, but four can have trouble

finishing it.

All of the food can be accompanied by a wide selection of beers. Wine is

available, but from a limited menu. After all, this is a beer-and-pizza

kind of place.It’s a testament to the Haus’ food that I have never, ever

had room for dessert. But in case you only reach a sub-saturation point

by the time your pizza is finished, New York cheesecake ($3) and double

chocolate mousse ($3.75) should bring you over the edge.

Doria’s Haus of Pizza is the ultimate definition of the word eatery. You

come here to eat. It is as simple as that. It is not gourmet food, it is

good food. It is an everyday place with better than everyday prices. When

you go, give a warm hello to Rick Doria, owner and manager. He’ll be glad

you did.

WHAT: Doria’s Haus of Pizza

WHERE: 1500 Adams Ave., Costa Mesa

WHEN: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Saturday and Sunday

HOW MUCH: Inexpensive

PHONE: (714) 751-8777