Dining Review

Stephen Santacroce

There’s an old real estate edict that lists the three most important

factors in choosing a property as location, location and location.

Luckily, there are exceptions to every rule, as Mistral in Corona del Mar

ably demonstrates.

Tucked away on a residential street behind the now closed Port

Theater, Mistral has no visibility from busy Pacific Coast Highway, yet

it has remained a local favorite since it opened three years ago.

Perhaps it’s the history -- after all, there’s been a restaurant on

the same spot for more than 30 years, but more likely it’s a tribute to

the neighborly, family atmosphere engendered by the current owners.

When Ed and Patty Waters purchased the property through a foreclosure,

they immediately placed ads looking for partners experienced in the

restaurant business. They eventually linked up with Jacques DeQuillien --

who has worked, among other places, at the respected Le Meridian -- and

his wife Olga.

The foursome run Mistral as if they were all family and most nights

all four are there: Ed behind the bar, Patty and Olga seating customers,

and Jacques supervising in the kitchen.

The restaurant, which was originally built to be a single-family home

in the 1940s, has a relaxed, cozy feel, with soft lighting and a

whitewashed, slanted beam ceiling in the main dining room. Original

artwork adorns the walls; Olga’s 16-year old son, Matthew, painted

several of the pieces.

Past the main dining area is Mistral’s popular cocktail lounge. Here a

gleaming copper bar gives way to a prominently featured piano where a

singer is usually performing recent favorites by Billy Joel or Elton

John. The bar serves a full dinner menu, and can get quite crowded in the

evenings, with everyone usually joining in for a rousing chorus of “Piano

Man.”

The menu at Mistral is rustic bistro fare with a Provincial accent.

Simple starters such as the pate ($7.95) served with olives and

cornichons (small sour pickles) or the plump steamed mussels ($6.50) are

right on the mark. The mussels are served in a savory tomato broth

flavored with herbs, garlic and shallots, perfect for dunking with the

fresh baguette slices served alongside.

Or try the roulade ($8.50), mild goat cheese, arugula and sun-dried

tomatoes rolled like a sushi hand roll in feuille de brik, which is a

Tunisian pastry similar to filo dough. The result is a crispy, light,

visually appealing plate drizzled with a flavorful port wine reduction

and tomato-flavored olive oil.

Salads include the house Mistral salad ($5.50), mixed greens topped

with sherry mustard vinaigrette and garnished with roasted peppers,

fennel, artichokes and fresh herbs: very French, and very good.

Soup lovers can start off with the savory French onion ($5.50), or the

lobster bisque, which didn’t deliver the sherry and cognac accents

promised in the menu and is pricey at $8.50.

The entrees at Mistral continue the theme of classic Provincial fare.

Steak au poivre ($18.50) features perfectly cooked filet mignon topped

with a zesty peppercorn sauce and garnished with some sauteed potatoes

and vegetables.

The poulet provencale ($13.50) is chicken, braised in a hearty mixture

of tomatoes, olives, garlic and bell peppers. The chicken is tender from

the long braising and the sauce stands up nicely to some of the lighter

red wines offered, such as the ’97 Wild Horse pinot noir.

Mediterranean cuisines borrow heavily from each other, and this is

evident in the paella ($16.50), a tasty mixture of shellfish and chorizo

sausage baked with saffron rice. It’s a perfect cold weather dish that is

Spanish in origin, but not out of place on a bistro menu.

Mistral also offers several fixed-price dinners on a nightly basis,

each offering three courses including a soup or salad, a meat or a fish

entree, and a dessert. Check the menu for prices.

The wine list at Mistral is constantly evolving, and features a good

selection of local wines as well as a good sampling of French wines. Ed

and Jacques are always tinkering with the selection, so it’s a good idea

to ask for choices that might not be listed. I’d like to see them

continue to expand on the selection of French wines, maybe offering a few

more by the glass.

Of course, no good meal is complete without dessert, and Mistral will

not let you down. I judge a French restaurant by its creme brulee

($5.50), and Mistral’s didn’t disappoint. The custard is light and

creamy, and was topped by a perfectly caramelized shell.

Another good choice is the strawberry Napoleon ($4.50); fresh

strawberries and pastry creme sandwiched between delicate sheets of puff

pastry. We didn’t try the lemon tart or the chocolate mousse, which gives

us an excellent reason to return. Every neighborhood needs a local

hideaway like Mistral. The owners are gracious and sincere in their

efforts to please their customers, the food is well prepared and full of

flavor, and the atmosphere, whether in the jovial lounge, or the cozy

dining room, is always warm and inviting.

WHAT: Mistral

WHERE: 440 Heliotrope Ave., Corona del Mar

WHEN: 5:30 to midnight every day

HOW MUCH: Moderately expensive

PHONE: (949) 723-9685