Dining review
Kathy Mader
If you have been to the Bluewater Grill in Newport Beach, then I am not
telling you anything new when I say that Bluewater Grill’s fish is fresh.
Bluewater fishermen catch most of their fish, deliver it to their
original restaurant down by The Cannery and drive it over to the new
South Coast Village restaurant, slice it up and serve it, all in the same
day.
You can’t beat that for fresh, unless you consider the tank of live
lobsters that greets you at the door of this casually elegant restaurant.
The newest Bluewater Grill -- located in what is rapidly becoming a hub
for fine dining, South Coast Village -- is several steps ahead of the
average fish house. Sure it has the blown up black-and-white pictures of
fishermen and fishing days gone by, and yes they even serve rice pilaf
and coleslaw like other fish houses tend to do. But this is where the
similarities stop. You won’t find paper plates, sawdust and extreme noise
here. What you will find is beautifully finished woods with brass
accents, ceiling fans, large booths, and a cozy bar that serves up a
whopper of a wine list that includes a nice selection of champagnes.
Many tables are in view of the kitchen with its shiny red tiles adding a
splash of excitement to all of the warm wood tones. This is where one can
witness the final gourmet touches and none of the gross stuff that comes
with fish just out of the water.
Speaking of fish just out of the water, The Bluewater Grill prints up a
new menu daily that reads like a Who’s Who in the Water. The specialties
on the night we visited included the California spiny lobster ($19.75),
done the Puerto Nuevo way, boiled briefly, cut in half and grilled on the
open flame and brushed with garlic butter; and the Santa Fe marinated
thresher shark ($16.95). I always encourage ordering shark when it’s on
the menu as it is one less in the water.
We started with the ahi sashimi ($9.75), so fresh that I am sure it was
swimming earlier in the day, and savory clams casino ($9.70). Keep bread
handy for the extra sauce. Did I mention the bread? Piping hot loaves of
crusty sour dough delivered all night long.
We also sampled the New England clam chowder. Bluewater Grill serves both
red and white, and would be the ideal place to stop in on a rainy night,
or after a long day of shopping, and have a warm bowl of chowder and hot
bread. Lobster bisque and oyster stew are also on the menu and you can
bet I will be back for those.
Brian, my husband, did his job and ordered something I would have never
thought to, the Washington petrale sole ($16.15) served with lemon caper
butter. I ordered the mother lode of all fish dishes and the house
specialty, cioppino ($21.75). This dish had a half of a Dungeness crab,
scallops, shrimp, clams, mussels and white fish in a zesty tomato-based
sauce and served over linguine. This fish stew can feed a family of two
for a week.The Bluewater Grill’s list of fresh fish changes daily, but
includes local snapper, Mississippi catfish, Atlantic salmon, Alaskan
halibut and Minnesota walleye pike. For those of you with both feet
firmly planted on land, certified Angus beef, politically correct
free-range chicken and pasta dishes are available.
Dessert choices include key lime pie ($3.25), mud pie ($4.95) and fresh
baked apple pie. Remember, it is important to make it hurt. We went for
the kill and had the mud pie.
Various lunch specials such as chowder, bread and salad are available at
great prices throughout the week.
In addition, South Coast Plaza Village provides a shuttle to and from the
Orange County Performing Arts Center and South Coast Repertory, which
makes for an easy pre- or post-dining experience.
The Bluewater Grill hosts different events throughout the year, which
include wine dinners and oyster tastings, just put your name on the list.
One of the finest things about the Bluewater Grill was our waiter,
Jeremy. He was friendly, funny, knowledgeable and determined to please.
But that kind of attitude starts at the top, and owners Jim Ulcickas,
Richard Staunton and Bill Carpenter know it and the Bluewater Grill
reflects it. Chef Brian Hirsty was having a lot of fun as well.
Bluewater Grill
WHERE: 1621 W. Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa (at South Coast Plaza Village)
WHEN: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
HOW MUCH: Moderately expensive
PHONE: (714) 546-FISH
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