DINING OUT -- Mary Furr

Like an old and faithful friend, the Shed, a 17-year-old restaurant owned

by Bill Gallegos and his wife, Phil, continues to serve breakfast, lunch

and dinner to faithful diners.

As the face of Huntington Beach changes, places like the Shed, on 5th

Street between Pacific Coast highway and Olive Avenue, are treasured.

The menu offers the famous hamburger ($6) selected by Independent readers

as the best, and dishes including oatmeal ($2.50), plus newer ones such

as the breakfast burrito ($4.75).

Caldo Gallegos ($7.50), is an original -- a spicy broth filled with

chunks of chicken, vegetables and shrimp topped with avocado slices

cheese and tortilla.

For a hauntingly flavored Cog au Vin ($11.95), a large platter is half

covered with chicken pieces (watch for bones), braised in wine, onions

and mushrooms. A colorful steamed vegetable medley of cauliflower,

carrots, zucchini and green beans is piled beside excellent rice pilaf.

The top-priced entree, Filet Mignon ($17.95), an inch-thick, 8-ounce

steak wrapped in bacon, is charbroiled, tender, prepared with care and is

as good as any steakhouse could offer.

All entrees include soup or salad. Soup, a good test of a kitchen, is

homemade like nearly everything at the Shed. The tomato tastes like the

very essence of ripe tomatoes and the seafood chowder is not too thick,

but is loaded with vegetables, baby shrimp, clams and snapper and, thank

goodness, a minimum of potato.

Recently the Gallegos have offered special “Dutch” dinners twice a month

on Wednesday evenings. Bill met Phil while he was employed in the

Netherlands, and friends have always enjoyed Phil’s Dutch dinners. The

set menu ($15.95) varies with appetizer, soup, salad, entree and dessert.

Last month there was Zuurkool Stamppot -- pork chop with mashed potatoes

and sauerkraut. Another Wednesday the salad was tomatensla, tomato with

smoked cheese and walnuts.

Though the Shed has been expanded, the original building was built three

quarters of a century ago. To celebrate the millennium, the Gallegos are

planning a party for their diners. “None of us will ever see the start of

another millennium,” says Bill.

So the Shed remains a warm and friendly place -- no booths, but tables

for two you can push together; no air conditioning, just windows to raise

for an ocean breeze, a staunch reminder of the Huntington Beach that was

and is becoming.

Mary Furr is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments or

suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

The Shed

Where: 210 5th St., Huntington Beach

Winter hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Tuesday.

Phone: 960-1317.

Dutch dinners and millennium celebration by reservation only.