DINING REVIEW

Kathy Mader

Although the term “soul food” dates back only to the 1960s, the food it

describes has long been popular, primarily in the South.

With African-American heritage at its root, soul food is just that:

comfort food that satisfies the spirit. Memphis, a soul food cafe on

Bristol Street in Costa Mesa, not only serves up intensive care via its

food, but also piques the culinary curiosity of those stuck in the same

restaurant rut.

Where else in town will you find fresh chunks of salmon in your mashed

potatoes or an apple-horseradish salsa on your oysters?

The location of Memphis, a cross between a roadside diner and a 1950s

bistro, will be remembered by those longtime locals as the home of the

little King’s Inn with the really big sign. For those of you newer to

town, it is right next to the Lab Anti-Mall, a nice place to peruse and

walk off some of that comfort -- or discomfort if you ate as much as we

did.Memphis was opened in August 1995 by Diego Velasco -- who also acts

as chef -- Andy Christenson and Daniel Bradley. The concept of a

Southern-style eatery originated with Bradley, but only after the

location was purchased. The retro-Americana style of the establishment

heavily influenced the creation of the menu, and Velasco relied on his

past experiences in Louisiana to authenticate their regional American

cooking.

As will happen with people who become loyal followers, regulars became

attached to the heart of Memphis’s menu. So approximately a year ago,

Memphis implemented a specials’ page that varies with the seasons and

local specialties.

The aforementioned oysters were on special the night we visited, and if

you should be so lucky as to come on the right night, order these. The

apple horseradish serves up a zip and a zing and your mouth is

transported straight to springtime. It’s a delightful sensation. They

come with a shaved cucumber and carrot salad in a light dressing.

Instead of going for the gumbo ($3.50), a staple on the menu, which came

highly recommended by the diners at the table next to us, we tried the

butternut squash and crab meat soup ($3.25). Sweet squash combined with

sweet crab meat and the slightest hint of nutmeg made for an appetizer

that could have served as dessert. The thick and spicy Southern crab

cakes ($8.95) were also delicious and served in a unique smoked tomato

sauce.

Hot corn bread and butter are served all night long, and almost every

dish comes with a sauce that makes you glad you have it, either for

sopping up the last drop, or bringing down the heat.

The pan-seared jumbo sea scallops ($16.50) were fresh and tender but the

real treat came with the smoked salmon and chive mashed potatoes. All of

this sat in the middle of what I thought was a rather watery but tasty

succotash.

My husband, Brian, ordered the meatloaf, an essential element to a

down-home, comfort-food menu. Memphis’ Southern meatloaf stack ($12.40)

was just that, two generous slices of meatloaf sandwiching lumpy mashed

potatoes, topped with melted cheddar cheese and drizzled with a red wine

gravy. Wipe your tears away. There are no blues that this couldn’t fix.

The Memphis menu also supplies that other down-home classic, pork chops,

marinated in garlic and spices and grilled with polenta served with a

balsamic cherry sauce.

Pan-roasted chicken ($12.75), shellfish jambalaya ($14.95) and the soul

burger rate among the highest with the dinnertime regulars, and the

pulled pork sandwich ($7.25), fried catfish po’boy ($7.75), and the

popcorn shrimp tacos ($7.75) are tops with the lunchtime crowd.

Memphis offers a very serious wine list with servers in the know. If you

are a wine lover, come check out the lengthy list. Quite a few beers are

available as well, with my favorite appellation, Dixie Blackened Voodoo

Lager. At present, Memphis serves only wine and beer, but a full liquor

license is in the works.

Memphis strives to not only provide comfort but also a little culture by

featuring the work of local artists and, every other month or so hosting

a reception for the newest local artists. On the night we visited,

various photographs hung on the warm, rum-colored walls and made for

interesting between-bite viewing.

Our eyes, however, never left the chocolate bread pudding in the warm

vanilla whiskey sauce once it arrived. While this could have been served

warmer, it could not have tasted any better.

If you’re in need of the kind of comfort that only mashed potatoes and

bread pudding can provide, and/or you don’t want to hit the same

restaurant route, stop in at Memphis, where a lot of food goes a long way

-- straight to the soul.

WHAT: Memphis

WHERE: 2920 Bristol St., Costa Mesa

WHEN: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday;

10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

HOW MUCH: Moderately expensive

PHONE: (714) 432-7685