DINING REVIEW

Stephen Santacroce

I often find myself with a dilemma when choosing a place to have lunch. I

don’t always want to spend the money or the time at a fancy, sit-down

restaurant, but the alternative of fast food joints or commercial

sandwich shops don’t excite me either.

Luckily, Cafe Panini in Corona del Mar fills this niche nicely, offering

specialty sandwiches and salads in a lively, European-style setting.

Cafe Panini sits on PCH next to Tiramasu, formerly Bella Teresa

Ristorante, formerly Matteo’s Restaurant. Obviously, this is a difficult

location, but owner/chef Moe Ghazi has created a winning formula by

infusing the Italian-oriented menu with several Mediterranean-influenced

dishes.

In addition, Ghazi, who also owns Laguna Beach’s popular Odessa

nightspot, has enhanced the breakfast menu and opened the former

breakfast-and-lunch-only restaurant for dinner three nights a week.

Inside, Cafe Panini resembles an upscale Italian deli. Shelves loaded

with specialty food items and gourmet coffee makers decorate the walls,

and a small counter serves up coffee drinks to walk-up guests. The

furnishings are kept simple: wood tables and chairs adorned with white

linens. Several tables in the front of the store are available for dining

al fresco, although I find the traffic noise from PCH to be a bit loud

for comfortable conversation.

For starters, you might try one of the several bruschetta appetizers. All

are served on grilled, homemade focaccia bread, including a traditional

version ($4.95) of chopped tomatoes, basil and garlic.

The focaccia is thicker and more flavorful than a plain baguette slice,

and it stays soft in the middle, absorbing the tomato juices and fresh

olive oil of the topping. Two versions feature roasted red peppers -- one

with Gorgonzola cheese ($6.25), the other with fresh goat cheese ($6.25).

The Gorgonzola -- Italian blue cheese -- is a strong flavor to mix with

the roasted peppers; I prefer the fresh sharpness of the goat cheese to

offset the earthy flavor of the vegetables.

Several Mediterranean appetizers also adorn the menu, including hummus

dip ($4.99), a blend of whipped garbanzo beans, tahini (sesame paste),

olive oil and garlic with a slight hint of lemon juice. It’s a tasty

combination that is great spread atop the accompanying bread slices.

Vegetable lovers will also like the grilled eggplant ($5.95), which is

chopped and mixed with tomato, basil and olive oil. If you’re having

trouble deciding, for $8.99 you can try a combination plate which has a

taste of all the Mediterranean starters, including a nice plate of olives

and feta cheese.

The comprehensive menu also features several pizzas, including one topped

with Black Forest ham, basil, tomato, onion and smoked mozzarella ($7.99

for a 7-inch pizza, $11.99 for a 10-inch). The smoked mozzarella adds a

pungent note to the mild ham, but I found the crust a bit chewy. The

smaller size is a nice meal for one; the large size serves two easily.

As you would expect from a restaurant named for an Italian sandwich, the

menu features more than 25 different sandwiches, or panini, as they are

billed.

Ghazi emphasizes fresh ingredients in all of the dishes and the menu

boasts that all of the meats are roasted in house. For example, they

offer several turkey sandwiches made with moist chunks of turkey breast

that’s a far cry from the processed slices found at the local sandwich

factory. Try the version with artichokes ($6.95), tomato, red onion and

smoked Gouda. The cheese and onion complement the mild turkey meat well.

Other sandwich choices illustrate a creative use of ingredients, such as

a chicken breast sandwich ($7.25) that marries grilled chicken with

sauteed yellow squash and zucchini, topped with brie cheese. The brie’s

unique creamy flavor adds a nice richness to this hearty sandwich.

Speaking of hearty, the sandwiches are all generous in size. A half

sandwich can be ordered for $1 less, or share one with a friend along

with caprese salas ($8.75), which features fresh mozzarella, tomatoes,

basil and olive oil.

Vegetarians will enjoy some of the meatless selections, including a

spinach panini ($6.25) that tops cooked spinach with tomatoes and fresh

ricotta cheese for a surprisingly light and fresh-tasting choice. Or try

the eggplant sandwich ($7.25), loaded with grilled eggplant, zucchini,

red peppers and topped with smoked mozzarella.

Cafe Panini is also open for breakfast, serving a variety of egg dishes

and baked goods. Omelets include an artichoke version ($6.95) stuffed

with artichoke hearts, tomato and smoked mozzarella, or my favorite made

with spinach, smoked Gouda and basil ($6.45).

They also offer several egg sandwiches served on their homemade focaccia

bread, including a tasty combination of eggs, proscuitto and provolone

($6.75). Or substitute the prosciutto with spinach served on a buttery

croissant for $4.75.

Cafe Panini is an excellent lunch choice for a quality meal that won’t

break the bank or take all afternoon. The enthusiastic staff always makes

you feel welcome, and the food is fresh and unique. And there is always a

bustling crowd that obviously enjoys this spot as much as I did.

Cafe Panini

WHERE: 2333 East Coast Highway, Corona del Mar

WHEN: Monday through Wednesday, 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Thursday and Friday, 6

a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10

p.m.; Sunday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

HOW MUCH: Inexpensive

PHONE: (949) 675-8101