DINING OUT -- Mary Furr
Christmas shopping can be an adventure when you do it at MacDonald’s
Plaza at Brookhurst Street and Garfield Avenue.
This corner of Fountain Valley is like a shop-lined street in Tokyo, with
a kimono shop filled with lovely fabrics, a grocery and an Asian market.
But best of all, you can drop into Shimura Japanese Restaurant, with its
cool interior of light wood panels, booths and tables, and a sushi bar at
the rear.
Waitresses bring small salad cups of sliced white cucumbers and tiny crab
bits in mild, sweet vinegar to your table.
A saucer of cabbage and carrots has a surprising bite of ginger. Heavy
ceramic tumblers are filled with hot tea.
A bowl of steaming miso, a fermented soybean soup with cubes of bean curd
tofu and dark green seaweed, comes first.
It’s a “sipping” soup, so pick up the bowl and sip. The fragrant steam
enhances the taste.
For an extra treat, select one of the 16 appetizers ($3.50 to $8.50).
There’s abalone, soft-shell crab, oysters, mussels, California roll or my
favorite, gyoza (six for $3.50), the Japanese version of a “pot sticker.”
A half-moon shaped dumpling is filled with minced pork and cabbage,
sealed, steamed and then served with a pungent, dark soy sauce flavored
with saki and a hint of ginger.
A good introduction to Japanese food, according to our informative server
Ritsuko, is one of the combinations ($5.50 to $7) served in feathered
tempura shrimp and vegetables, with iceberg lettuce salad, a grilled
slice of firm but tender salmon and three delicious fried scallops. It’s
a variety of preparation and texture.
A similar bento ($6.95), has kara-age, a garlicky, lightly dipped (not
battered) fried chicken, with tender strips of dark beef teriyaki glazed
with a sweet sauce of soy and rice wine. A bowl of excellent sticky rice
completes the combo.
These picture-perfect bento trays bear the Japanese stamp of attention to
detail, an eye for beauty and a taste for healthy, well-prepared food in
a minimum of oil.
The 13-year-old Shimura restaurant is owned by Nao Takahashi, who, in a
starched white jacket and pillbox hat, commands the popular sushi bar, a
magnet for diners, especially at lunch when it fills quickly.
So, take a break at Shimura and the finish your Christmas list in the
shops of this unusual plaza.
Shimura Japanese Restaurant
Where: 18906 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley.
Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tuesday to Friday.
Dinner: 5 to 10 p.m. daily.
Closed Monday.
Phone: (714) 964-8840.
MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments or
suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.
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