Dining Review

Stephen Santacroce

Driving down Bayside Drive in Newport Beach, it’s hard not to notice the

new restaurant perched next to Vons Pavilion on the old Gladstone’s spot.

A warm, elegant glow draws your attention to the low, modern structure

partially shaded by eucalyptus trees, within view of a finger of Newport

Harbor parked with expensive yachts. Bayside is the proud offspring of

the hugely successful Bistango Restaurant in Irvine’s business district.

Owner Marc Ghoukassian is the son of Bistango’s owner and has managed the

restaurant as well; general manager David Martel was also a familiar face

at Bistango for many years.

Even Bayside’s bar manager, Doug Charles, has been transplanted from the

Irvine eatery to make things run smoothly in the impressive cocktail

lounge. Like siblings who are a few years apart, there is enough of a

resemblance to recognize the same family, yet Bayside has a distinct

personality that distinguishes it as a unique new presence.

The owners wisely brought in the same architect to design the new

restaurant, and the results are striking. As you enter the restaurant,

the first thing you notice is the gleaming brushed steel and glass wine

tower, sort of a miniature walk-in cellar that displays many of the

restaurant’s wines while keeping them chilled at the same time.

This understated, modern look continues as you head left of the entrance

to the large bar area. The curving bar features more brushed steel offset

by light wood accents, and the lounge opens to a large veranda that

surrounds most of the restaurant, giving it the look of a graceful island

plantation house.

The dining room is toned down slightly: taupe sponge-textured walls are

dotted with black-and-white sketches of tropical flowers all lighted by

soft pin spots. Single orchids on the linen-covered tables and

comfortable wicker chairs continue the island feel.

The noise level is the only thing that can occasionally spoil the

atmosphere; it can be very loud with a full house.

Bistango has long been known for its eclectic menu, and head chef Paul

Gstrein has been brought to Bayside to continue that tradition. Gstrein

has crafted a small menu that displays his culinary skills without

overshadowing the quality of the meats, fish and other ingredients he is

able to procure. There are no specials at Bayside, as the menu can change

daily depending on what is available at the markets.

As a starter, the seafood martini ($14) is a perfect example of the

elegant marriage of presentation and flavors Bayside is striving for.

Chunks of lobster, scallops and shrimp are marinated in a light citrus

dressing and cucumber, avocado and tomato, all cut into small

marble-sized pieces similar to melon balls. The refreshing mixture is

then dramatically presented in a tall martini glass. Tuna tartar ($10)

combines raw, sushi-grade ahi chopped with capers and cornichons in a

light pepper sauce. The dish is described as lightly spiced, but I

thought the black pepper was a bit overwhelming.

The highlight of the starters, though, is the quail served with seared

fois gras ($15). The quail is roasted until the skin is brown and crisp

and is served atop a mushroom and prosciutto pancake along with the

seared fois gras. A truffle-infused sauce adds a sublime earthiness to

the rich goose liver, and the quail has been perfectly cooked both times

I’ve tried

it.

The soup changes daily -- a rich chicken and barley version served a few

nights ago was particularly good. Several salads are offered, including

one of roasted beets with goat cheese and endive ($9). The endive is

wrapped around the creamy cheese, stood on its end in the center of the

plate and is then surrounded by the cold beets. My companions all made a

face when they read beets on the menu, but there was not one complaint as

I handed samples around the table.

There are usually only four or five fish dishes on the entree list, and

they change often to ensure that only the freshest catch is served. One

mainstay is the seared tuna ($24), a healthy portion of ahi seared rare

and served with roasted red peppers and olive tapenade. The roasted

pepper and olive combination accent the fresh tuna, giving the dish a

slightly Sicilian character. Small, creamy fingerling potatoes finish the

plate.

A John dory filet has disappeared from the menu. If it’s back when you

visit, give it a try; the light filets are sauteed with a nice, crisp

crust and served with a lemon-infused sauce.

One of the better meat dishes I’ve tried is the Colorado lamb loin ($27).

The lamb tenderloin, a difficult cut for us home chefs to find, is

roasted to order (I like mine medium rare) and is served sliced over

garlic mashed potatoes with a garnish of roasted tomatoes and baby

artichokes. It’s a simple, elegant dish that forces the diner to focus on

the quality and the flavor of the tender lamb.

The rib-eye steak ($29) was less satisfying. It’s a thick cut served with

balsamic vinegar and onion confit and crisp shoestring potatoes. The

steak had too much fat and was a bit stringy, not the quality I’d expect

given the rest of the menu. One of the most remarkable things at Bayside,

particularly because it’s such a young restaurant, is its extensive wine

list. Martel has put together a diverse selection of wines from many

regions of the world. Martel, who once worked for a wine distributor, is

obviously proud of the collection and plans to oversee its continued

growth.

Bayside is an elegant, worthy addition to Newport Beach’s fine-dining

scene. The location is a bit off the beaten path but is worth the trip.

I’m looking forward to warm summer evenings when I can sit on its patio

watching boats returning from a cruise and pretend I’m on vacation in

some far off, exotic locale.

FYI

WHAT: Bayside

WHERE: 900 Bayside Drive, Newport Beach

WHEN: Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Saturday and

Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner: Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10:30

p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m., Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m.

HOW MUCH: Expensive

PHONE: (949) 721-1222