STEPHEN SANTACROCE -- Dining review

* Call: (949) 642-4114

There’s a popular theory about finding good food while you’re on the

road: Just follow the truckers and eat where they do.

Well, the Newport Beach corollary for finding a good

cappuccino/breakfast/lunch spot is: Follow the stay-at-home moms.

I was recently driving along 17th Street in Newport Beach and spotted a

parking lot full of SUVs -- lined up like 18-wheelers at a rest stop

along the Jersey Turnpike. I had to see what the fuss was about.

What I found was Haute Cakes Caffe, a charming, if somewhat hidden,

coffee shop serving wonderful baked goods, breakfast entrees and

specialty sandwiches.

Haute Cakes is the brainchild of Paul Taddeo, who started the restaurant

10 years ago. Back then, Paul was making desserts and distributing them

to local restaurants and bakeries. Then he decided to open a place to

sell his creations to the public, topped with an espresso or cappuccino.

The menu gradually expanded as egg dishes, pancakes and lunch sandwiches

were added. Today Haute Cakes serves breakfast and lunch daily.

Located in a rear courtyard in an upscale strip mall, the eatery is all

but invisible from the street. This tucked-away spot provides a quiet,

secluded setting, especially when diners can enjoy the outdoor tables in

warmer weather.

You place orders at the counter and when it’s ready, servers wander

around with your food calling your name.

Breakfast items include a variety of egg and griddle dishes, plus a

wonderful assortment of turnovers, muffins, croissants and other baked

goods.

A morning favorite is the Haute scramble ($7.25), which combines fresh

tomato, basil and cooked spinach with fluffy scrambled eggs. A slightly

heartier variation is the Italian scramble ($7.95), a mix of sausage,

peppers, mushrooms, onion and tomato.

Breakfast burritos are popular all over Orange County, and Haute Cakes

offers its own version ($6.95) filled with eggs, potatoes, tomato, onion

and cheddar cheese. What sets it apart is the o7 molef7 sauce and

tomatillo salsa served on top. The o7 molef7 has just the right hint

of cocoa and spice, the perfect thing to wake up your taste buds.

All the egg dishes are served with toast, jam, fruit and potatoes.

Griddle offerings include buttermilk pancakes ($5.95) -- a generous stack

served piping hot with real maple syrup and fresh fruit. Or check the

specials board and see if they’re offering the ricotta lemon pancakes

($7.95) that I was lucky enough to try. Light tasting with just a hint of

citrus; you’ll eat the whole stack before realizing you’re about to

burst. They’re topped with a delicious blueberry compote, or you can have

them with maple syrup instead.

I also like the fruit bruschetta ($4.25), a sinful combination of rich

mascarpone cheese, fruit and honey on a toasted baguette.

If you’re one to sleep in and happen to wake up too late for breakfast,

drop by Haute Cakes for lunch, when you’ll find an impressive selection

of salads and sandwiches.

Salads are separated into two categories: some with all-cold ingredients

and others topped with items from the grill.

In the cold category, try the mixed greens and goat cheese ($7.25). In

addition to the creamy goat cheese, the greens are combined with crunchy

toasted walnuts, fresh raspberries, kalamata olives and onion, all tossed

in a raspberry vinaigrette. I would have preferred it without the olives

-- they didn’t go well with the fruit -- but otherwise it’s a tasty

combination.

Among the grilled choices, the vegetable salad ($8.25) tops greens with

grilled zucchini, squash, eggplant, peppers and asparagus, seasoned

lightly with a tangy balsamic vinaigrette.

The creative sandwich selection is also divided into two categories: also

hot and cold. Tuna- and chicken-salad sandwiches are on the menu ($6.95),

but the actual recipe changes on a daily basis -- ask your server how

it’s being prepared.

One of my favorites is the brie baguette sandwich ($6.50), which balances

creamy brie with a tomato-basil mixture and some chopped spinach, all

drizzled with more of the balsamic vinaigrette.

Occasionally the chefs can get a bit too creative for their own good, as

with the smoked turkey sandwich ($7.25) offered as a special. The turkey

was moist and had a nice smoky flavor, and lettuce, tomato and a nice

blue-cheese mayonnaise accompanied it. But the addition of avocado slices

was superfluous; the avocado flavor was overpowered by the blue cheese

and smoky meat.

More on the mark is the grilled chicken sandwich ($6.25). The chicken is

cooked just right, not dry, and topped with roasted peppers, goat cheese,

lettuce and tomatoes. It’s served on a crusty baguette with just the

right amount of tangy Dijon mustard.

Of course, there are plenty of desserts here -- after all, that’s how the

place got started. The selection of cream puffs, cookies and other

pastries is too large to list here, but don’t miss the chocolate chip

espresso cookies. A bite of one of these babies will keep you moving for

the rest of the afternoon.

In addition to espresso drinks and hot and iced teas, Haute Cakes also

offers a variety of beers and wines by the glass.

Haute Cakes serves up a creative menu for an enjoyable, leisurely

breakfast or lunch. From now on I’m staying away from the big rigs and

following the Suburbans and Expeditions, because the moms are certainly

clued in on the best places for a quality meal in a comfortable setting.