Stephen Santacroce -- Dining Review

Every neighborhood needs a good Italian restaurant. I’m not talking a

pizzeria or spaghetti house, but a place that has a nice atmosphere, good

food and lots of regular customers. It’s the kind of place that feels

familiar, whether it’s your first visit or your 15th.

At Dolce Ristorante on Pacific Coast Highway, owner David Axe has created

just such a place in the heart of Newport’s glitzy Mariners Mile.

The first thing that strikes you when you enter Dolce is the large

enclosed patio area that takes up the front two-thirds of the restaurant.

The large room is spacious and comfortable, with a small bar at the far

end and a fire pit in the center. Despite facing PCH, the patio is

surprisingly well-shielded from traffic noise and the overall effect is

of sitting in the garden of a large estate.

Passing through the patio area, one enters the restaurant through the

bar, a granite- and marble-topped L-shaped affair with a dozen or so

stools. Here, bartenders Michelle or Katie will gladly mix a martini or

Campari and soda while you’re waiting for a table.

The main dining room maintains the overall sense of intimacy. The darkly

lit room’s cream walls are punctuated with gilt-framed oil colors of

Italian cities and towns. A large fireplace dominates the far end, its

mantle topped with a dramatic spray of fresh flowers.

The menu at Dolce is traditional Italian: antipasti, a generous selection

of pastas and well-chosen second courses of fresh fish, veal and steaks.

On a recent visit with several friends, we sampled several selections

from both the cold and hot appetizers. The fried calamari ($7.25) came

out of the kitchen golden brown and crisp and was served with a flavorful

marinara sauce for dipping.

The classic combination of melon and prosciutto ($7.95) is offered, but

at Dolce it’s beefed up, literally, with slices of braciola (thinly

sliced air-cured beef). This refreshing dish is always a good first

course; the sweet melon contrasts well with the salty meats.

I also like the mussels ($8) steamed in a savory broth of white wine,

garlic and herbs with just a touch of tomato sauce -- perfect for dipping

with any leftover bread.

Since I’m on the subject, the bread at Dolce is my only source of

disappointment. I’m not sure if it’s microwaved or served from a steamer,

but either way the crust has none of the crispness you’d expect of good

Italian bread. It’s somewhat salvaged, though, by the tasty olive

tapenade that accompanies it to the table.

Soups include hearty minestrone, full of plump beans and chunks of

vegetables in a tangy tomato broth. Also on the menu is the classic

straciatella, homemade chicken broth with spinach and ribbons of

scrambled eggs. It’s one of my favorites, although on occasion I’ve found

Dolce’s a bit on the salty side.

Of course, any good Italian restaurant will have a good selection of

pasta dishes, and Dolce is no exception. Traditionally, pastas are served

as a first course -- the portions at Dolce are definitely meal-sized, but

they will split them for you on request.

A good choice is the penne alla grappa ($13.95), quill-shaped pasta tubes

in a tomato sauce flavored with sauteed pancetta and just a hint of

grappa, the potent Italian liquor. The grappa adds a truly distinct

flavor to the dish.

Stuffed pastas include delicate ravioli stuffed with fresh lobster

($14.95) and served with a tomato sauce colored pink by a touch of cream.

Probably my favorite, though, are the gnocchi ($11.75). These potato

dumplings can be tough and heavy if not done right. At Dolce they are

light and flavorful, served in a light marinara sauce with strands of

melted fresh mozzarella and a sprinkling of fresh basil.

For me, the benchmark at any Italian restaurant is the veal dishes, and

Dolce meets this test well. Classics like veal picatta ($16.50), thin

slices served with a tangy lemon and caper sauce, or veal marsala

($16.50), scallopini in a marsala wine, all feature veal that is cooked

to perfect tenderness and sauced with a restrained hand.

Currently on the menu as a special is a thick veal loin chop ($28.95)

that is grilled and served in a porcini mushroom sauce. I highly

recommend trying it before it’s replaced.

The fish dishes illustrate the Italian penchant for simple dishes

prepared with just a few fresh ingredients.Swordfish can be ordered with

a sauce of capers, olives and fresh tomatoes ($17.50), or with lemon,

capers, and pine nuts ($17.25). I like the latter; the pine nuts add a

nice subtle crunch to the dish and the lemon accents the fish without

overpowering.

I should point out that Dolce tends to cook its fish more thoroughly than

is currently the trend in most restaurants; some may find it a bit dry.

If it’s your preference, just ask your waiter to have the kitchen

undercook it a bit.

The wine list at Dolce features a good selection of reasonably priced

domestic and Italian bottles. A friend was pleased to see that the reds

are served in oversized balloon glasses, perfect for allowing the wine to

breathe.

There are only a few desert selections at Dolce, but they’ve been well

chosen. A ricotta cheesecake ($5.95) is light and fluffy and accented

nicely with a fresh strawberry sauce. Or, plan ahead and order one of

Dolce’s souffles ($7.50). My favorite is the lemon souffle. It comes from

the kitchen puffy and golden, and the custard has a lightness that belies

the rich ingredients.

Dolce is a comfortable, relaxed restaurant. I’ve noticed many familiar

faces on my visits; there is obviously a loyal following and diners tend

to linger over their meals not feeling rushed. It’s the place to go to

enjoy a good meal and sip an espresso or sambuca while letting the world

pass you by for a while.

/SI STEPHEN SANTACROCE’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday. He

can be reached via e-mail at food_critic@hotmail.com .

WHAT: Dolce Ristorante

WHERE: 800 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach

WHEN: 5 to 10:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 5 to 11:30 p.m. Friday and

Saturday

HOW MUCH: Moderately expensive

PHONE: (949) 631-4334