MARY FURR -- Dining Out

Sam’s Seafood on Pacific Coast Highway in Sunset Beach is a perfect place

to celebrate Father’s Day on Sunday. With its exotic murals, waterfall

and grotto done in 1968 by three Cal State Long Beach art students, it’s

like a miniature vacation island. It’s also a subtle hint that you

wouldn’t be opposed to the real thing someday.

Father’s Day will be special here, co-manager Teri Blanchard said,

because it will give Dad a choice. If he likes a sumptuous buffet (10

a.m. to 3 p.m., $16.95), there will be a salad and seafood table with a

big bowl of peel-and-eat shrimp at one end and a bowl of fresh slivers of

white crab meat at the other.

Then an excellent Manhattan chowder in a big tureen starts a hot buffet

-- sausages, potatoes, skewered glazed fish, tempura vegetables, eggs

Benedict, waffles and stir-fry. For oyster lovers, there are oysters

Rockefeller and oysters on the half shell.

But if Dad prefers to order and be served, after 3 p.m. he can choose

from ocean delicacies from Fish and Chips ($9.95) to a Sea Steak Platter

($16.95), with swordfish, salmon, halibut and snapper.

All entrees include chowder or salad. The red tomato-spiced Manhattan

clam chowder is very good, as is the thick, creamy New England one --

though both could have used a little less potato. Salad might be a better

choice, as entrees do not include any vegetables.

Fresh Halibut ($15.95 and in season now) is more than an inch thick and

the filet is sauteed to perfection. Its low-fat, white, thick texture has

a delicate flavor, and it is served with a choice of potatoes or Sam’s

special Hawaiian-style rice. I chose a baked potato served with gobs of

butter, chives and sour cream.

Chef Ruben Placencia, who has been at the restaurant for 27 years,

prepares his specialties well, with seasonings that complement any fish

-- the real star of any preparation.

Another selection is Broiled Salmon ($15.95) crisscrossed with char

marks, firm with pinkish flesh, lean and not as fatty as some salmon

varieties.

In addition to seafood, the menu offers Prime Rib ($15.95) from the

broiler, a combination of Lobster Tail with Steak ($22.95) or with Prime

Rib ($23.95), Hawaiian Chicken ($13.95) and pastas.

Sam’s will be a vacation for Dad with its colorful island-oriented decor

and music in its warren of dining areas. One large banquet, dubbed

“Hidden Village,” also has a grotto with water spilling from a huge conch

shell. There’s an outrigger canoe hanging from the peaked rafters of the

main room, blow fish lights in the cocktail area and several large

fan-backed rattan chairs -- a perfect fit for the king of the day, Dad.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments or

suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

FYI

Sam’s Seafood

WHERE: 16278 S. Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily; Father’s Day brunch 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

and dinner 3 to 10 p.m.

CALL: (562) 592-1321

MISC.: Credit cards. Reservations recommended.