PETER BUFFA -- Comments & Curiosities

What a week! Startling news, breathtaking developments.

Elian goes home? No. Bigger (but don’t get me wrong, we’re still grateful

for that one).

Scientists decipher the human genome? Nope. Bigger.

Come on, concentrate. What about Chuck “I Know Nothing” Quackenbush?

Look, I only get so much space here, so I’ll just tell you, OK?

I’m talking about the grand opening of Skosh Monahan’s, of course. I’m

sure you’ve been there by now, so I -- what? What do you mean, “What’s

that?” It’s a brand-new restaurant and bar, the proprietor of which is

Costa Mesa’s very own mayor, Gary Monahan.

To name the place, Gary used his nickname, “Skosh,” -- a moniker he

picked up as the captain of his high school basketball team. It was a

small school.

The full name of the new pub is “Skosh Monahan’s: Famous Steaks, Irish

Spirits.” I like the way that scans -- “Famous Steaks, Irish Spirits.”

Very lyrical.

Let me say up front, I have a soft spot for Irish pubs, having been a

frequent visitor during my formative years to McSorley’s in lower

Manhattan, the granddad of Irish pubs on this side of the big pond.

Wait, here’s a trivia quiz. Two California mayors ran restaurants while

in office and, in fact, first ran for office after a dispute with the

city over their restaurants. One was Gary Monahan, general manager of the

Goat Hill Tavern.

Who was the other mayor? Tick, tick, tick, tick ... buzz.

Here’s a hint: “Go ahead, mark my ballot.”

Yep. Clint Eastwood. Clint decided to run for, and became, the mayor of

Carmel after the city denied his request to place a couple of cafe tables

outside his restaurant. Where else can you find fascinating, utterly

useless information like this? Nowhere, that’s where.

But let’s get back to Skosh Monahan’s. Most of the local “mayor news” has

been grim of late, but this is a good thing.

You can find the restaurant -- complete with the mayor, his able staff

and a lot of shiny new glasses and silverware -- on the east side of

Newport Boulevard, a few blocks north of Newport and 19th Street. For the

directionally challenged, it’s what used to be the Newport Rib Company.

If you still don’t know where it is, you probably shouldn’t be driving.

The official opening is this very night. Tuesday night was a preview for

the Costa Mesa City Council members, city staff and a few municipal

relics like myself.

Everyone was gracious and well-behaved, even the council members, and no

one forgot their party manners. Costa Mesa Police Chief Dave Snowden

wanted to do his imitation of the Lucky Charms leprechaun on steroids,

but cooler heads prevailed.

I had the privilege of drawing a ceremonial first glass of Guinness, with

the assistance of Miss Costa Mesa, who has a great name, by the way --

Summer Lee Kerr. Very stylish.

There is a trick to working a beer tap, and neither of us knew it. We

tipped the glass every way but upside down, but still ended up with a

nice, cool glass of foam. Fortunately, there were real bartenders there

who know how to do it quite well, thank you, under the sharp eye of bar

manager Donna Marie, herself an authentic Irish import from Derry,

Ireland.

There were samples of this and that from the menu, and my wife, Sharyn,

and I decided to order dinner so that I could sustain my fantasy of being

a food critic. Chef Mike Doctulero has created a very impressive menu,

and everything is way beyond the quality one would expect in a

neighborhood pub.

Appetizers, anyone? The New England clam chowder really is, and I am very

picky about what qualifies to be called New England chowder. This chowder

would definitely sell in Bangor, where the locals would describe it as

“wicked good.”

If you’re watching your diet, try the Irish coddle -- grilled Irish

sausage, bacon and onions -- and a double order of tavern steak fries.

That should do it.

I’m not sure what “famous steaks” are -- maybe they come from celebrity

cows, I don’t know -- but my wife had the petite filet, which was

excellent. In fact, it was as good as any cut you can find at the premium

steak houses, which shall remain unnamed -- even the one whose name

rhymes with Ralph Cramden’s annoying neighbor on “The Honeymooners.”

I had the corned beef and cabbage (it’s an Irish pub, OK?) which was

top-notch. It was simple and authentic, just as CB&C; should be. The

iceberg wedge salad was a big surprise, literally. It’s essentially a

head of fresh lettuce, quartered (thus, the “wedge” reference) with a

sprinkling of red onion and blue cheese dressing.

The wine list, called the “Mayor’s Collection” (Get it? “Mayor’s

Collection” -- “Mayor Monahan?” Work with me on this) is also very

impressive for a neighborhood restaurant. I’ve been thrown out of a lot

of Irish pubs, but this is the first I’ve seen one where you can have

your choice between the Bass Ale or the Clos Du Bois merlot.

It was also fun to find out that our order was the first for our

waitress, Marti Wysong. She was very attentive and personable, and the

service couldn’t have been better. And as you know, nothing ranks higher

than good service on my restaurant wish list. Quality -- fine.

Presentation -- great. But if I have to ask for some cream for my coffee

for the third time, it is over between us.

So that’s the deal. Hop to it, or drive, whichever you prefer. Skosh

Monahan’s, Newport Boulevard and 20th. I say start with the Irish Coddle,

then try the 24-ounce porterhouse with a double side of steak fries, then

the fresh apple cobbler and ice cream. Just eat slowly. You’ll be fine.

I gotta go.

* PETER BUFFA is a former Costa Mesa mayor. His column runs Fridays. He

can be reached via e-mail at o7 PtrB4@aol.comf7 .