DINING OUT -- MARY FURR

Two electric freight trains chug around on duel tracks just below the

dark blue ceiling of Chicago Ribs, at Yorktown Avenue and Brookhurst

Street in Huntington Beach.

There’s a small bar and tables to the left of the entrance, with

booths and tables and, to the right, a banquet against dark sienna orange

walls that stretch to the back of the restaurant.

Ribs, as the name implies, are a specialty here with World Famous

Chicago Feast ($34.99) -- a good sampling. The menu says, “Serves two

with leftovers” -- those leftovers can easily feed the kids.

First comes the crispy block of tangled onion rings with a mild

barbecue dipping sauce. The rings have a thicker-than-ususal coat -- more

crackle than moist onion but acceptable as an opener. Next, we had good,

dark molasses baked beans and fresh-chopped coleslaw, not sloppy with

mayo but moist and well-flavored.

The rest of the feast comes on a big platter -- a rack of six big

ribs, rather dry and not the baby backs we expected. They are piled on

top of the broiled chicken, and six good-sized broiled shrimp are tucked

along the edge with heavily coated drumettes and wings, and 2-inch-wide

meaty big beef ribs thick with dark sauce. This is lusty eating, the

pick-up-and-destroy-type of food, so enjoy.

Crispy crisscross potatoes fill one end of the platter, two tender

corn cobettes are included and at one end, fresh pineapple wedges, orange

quarters and a slice of cantaloupe.

If you aren’t completely overwhelmed yet, order a cooling sherbet

glass of Italian ice ($1.49) from the Ice Empire in Huntington Beach --

real fruit taste. Ours was lemon, like fluffy flavored snow.

Chicago Ribs has a range of other choice -- barbecue chicken

($8.49-$9.99), steak ($9.99-$15.99), salads ($2.99-$6.99), burgers

($5.49-$6.49) and sandwiches ($5.99-$6.49), which also include side

choices, such as fries, beans, baked potatoes, macaroni and cheese, and

fruit.

You won’t need to hop a train to Chicago for ribs, they’re right here

-- train and all.

* MARY FURR is the Independent’s restaurant critic.

FYI

o7 Chicago Ribs

f7 WHERE: 9901 Yorktown St., Huntington Beach

HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, noon to 11 p.m. Saturday and

Sunday.

CALL: (714) 963-7427

MISC.: Credit cards accepted. 10% senior discount. Home delivery after

5 p.m.