DINING REVIEW -- Stephen Santacroce

The first thing that strikes me when I walk into an Indian restaurant

is the exotic aroma permeating from the kitchen. Curry spices combine

with cinnamon, cardamom and other foreign ingredients to immediately

transport me to some far off, mystical place.

Mayur in Corona del Mar has been open for 16 years, and I have to

confess: I’ve lived there for seven and had never been to the place.

I can’t explain why. I love Indian cuisine, and I always drove or

walked by and thought that the intimate-looking restaurant, sandwiched

between a Kentucky Fried Chicken and a liquor store, looked interesting.

I just never went in.

Well, I’m glad to say that I’ve now eaten at Mayur several times and

will most certainly go back. It’s some of the best Indian food I’ve

tasted in Orange County, cooked with a subtlety that never overpowers but

instead teases one’s taste buds.

The restaurant itself has recently undergone some renovation. The

exterior of the building that houses the fast-food place and the liquor

store, as well as the restaurant, recently was given a new facade, and

the owners of Mayur took the opportunity to redo the interior.

Muted purple and orange tones on the walls and ceilings create a warm,

elegant atmosphere. The kitchen, located in the rear of the restaurant,

has a glass window facing the dining area, which reveals the tandoor, a

clay oven used to prepare many of the restaurant’s specialties.

Oftentimes, I’ve had Indian cuisine that is overpowering and too

greasy. But not here.

Chef Dharem Punair, who’s been with the restaurant since it opened,

has a sure but subtle hand with his ingredients, and allows his food to

tease the palate, but never overpower.

This is not to say that the temperature quotient can’t be quite high.

It’s just that the hotness never takes over the dish, but rather enhances

and compliments the other flavors.

The appetizers provide the perfect wake-up call for your taste buds,

such as the Samosa ($5.95), crisp triangle shaped pastry stuffed with a

spicy mixture of potatoes and peas. The Samosas go well with either of

the spicy sauces -- one flavored with tamarind, the other a sort of spicy

cilantro pesto -- that are placed on the table as you’re seated.

Onion Bhaji ($4.95) are India’s answer to onion rings. Shredded onion

is dipped in batter and fried, resulting in a crispy but light fritter.

Shrimp Chat ($9.95) is more reminiscent of a Spanish ceviche than

something I’d expect at an Indian restaurant. Plump shrimp are marinated

in a combination of lime juice, sugar, hot peppers and other spices,

creating a tart, clean, citrus flavor that is the perfect compliment to

some of the warmer, mellow spices used in many of the other dishes.

The entree selections at Mayur feature lamb and chicken, as well as

many vegetarian dishes. Some of my favorite dishes are cooked in the

tandoor, which can easily reach 800 degrees Fahrenheit. The high

temperature results in food that is seared on the outside, sealing in the

juices for a moist, flavorful result.

A good example is the Tandoori Lamb ($13.95), chunks of lamb marinated

in spices and then cooked in the oven. The succulent lamb morsels are as

tender as I’ve ever had, and the marinade highlights the meat’s natural

flavors without creating a distraction.

By far the best lamb dish is Karahi Lamb ($14.95). Here the lamb is

coated in a yogurt mixture spiced with cumin, garlic, ginger, coriander

and cinnamon, and cooked in a special pot that resembles a cast iron wok.

The flavor combination is beyond description, and seems to stimulate all

of the various tastes at once.

I ordered this recently with a friend who doesn’t like lamb and

watched in amazement as she helped herself to seconds.

It’s difficult to describe the flavorings used in Indian cooking.

Unlike some cuisines, where a single spice will predominate a dish,

Indian chefs combine a variety of spices to create subtle, intriguing

tastes that, as a whole, bear little resemblance to their parts.

A good example is Chicken Tikka Masala ($14.95). This dish combines

chicken tikka -- boneless chicken pieces cooked in the tandoor -- with a

tomato based sauce flavored with onions and a heady blend of spices.

A favorite among the vegetable dishes is the Palek Paneer ($9.95),

creamed spinach that is cooked with cubes of mild cheese similar to

mozzarella. Or try the Mushroom Mateer, which combines delicate peas with

savory mushrooms in a lightly spiced white sauce.

Indian food is served with a variety of condiments and side dishes,

all designed to compliment the spicy flavorings of the entrees.

Raita ($3) is a yogurt dish that is flavored with chopped cucumber and

mint or other herbs. It’s a cooling counterpoint to the heat of many of

the other dishes.

No Indian dinner can be complete without sampling several Indian

breads, many of which are cooked in the tandoor. Purists can order Naan

($2.50), a slightly leavened flat bread that is actually slapped on the

side of the clay oven to cook. When it falls from the side, it’s done.

Paratha is similar to Naan, but is stuffed with herbs or other

ingredients. I like the Mint Paratha ($3.95) and the Palek Paratha, which

is stuffed with spinach.

Mayur offers a decent wine list with some reasonably priced

selections. Try a Gewerztraminer, a slightly sweet German white wine that

is the perfect foil to the spices and seasonings of the food.

Maybe the best time to enjoy Mayur is at lunch. The menu is basically

the same as dinner, but your order comes with complimentary Naan, Raita,

white rice and the Palek Paneer. It’s an economical way to sample many of

the treats Mayur has to offer.

Whether for lunch or for dinner, make a trip to Mayur to enjoy what

may be the best Indian food in Orange County.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’s restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at food_critic@hotmail.com.

FYI

* What: Mayur

* Where: 2931 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar

* When: Lunch hours are 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday-Friday. Dinner

is served from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday-Sunday.

* How much: Moderately expensive

* Call: (949) 675-6622