STEPHEN SANTACROCE -- Dining Review

When Helmut Reiss came over from Munich and opened Rothschild’s in

1977, the Corona Del Mar landscape was quite different than it is today.

Most of the restaurants open then have changed hands many times, although

a few stalwarts, such as The Quiet Woman, Five Crowns, and Reiss’

Rothschild’s, have stood the test of time.

The recipe for a successful and long-lived restaurant is an elusive

thing, not taught in the best of cooking schools. Great food doesn’t

guarantee success. As important as location is, there are several

restaurants that have been around for years that I still have trouble

finding.

Consistency, in my mind, is one of the most important factors; friends

of mine told me with obvious pleasure that the service and, indeed, the

menu at Rothschild’s haven’t changed in years.

And while change is often good, there is something comforting about

knowing that there will be a place that can be relied on, year after

year, to provide good food in a pleasant atmosphere, served by polite and

attentive staff.

Rothschild’s, now run by Reiss’ daughter, Heidi Patricola, sits on

Coast Highway at the beginning of Corona Del Mar. It is identified only

by the unassuming black awning that crowns the entrance.

Inside, whitewashed brick walls adorned with 19th century oil paintings, rich carpets and muted lighting give the restaurant an old

world charm that contrasts with today’s trend towards bright lighting and

sharp edges.

Despite Reiss’ German origins, the menu features predominately

Northern Italian dishes prepared by head chef P.Q. Alizondo, who’s been

with the restaurant for 17 years.

You can’t go wrong starting with a basket or two of the garlic bread

($2.95), thick slices of French bread smeared with butter, garlic and

fresh chopped parsley. It’s toasted just long enough to melt the butter

and release the garlic’s flavor without any burnt or charred taste.

Not listed on the menu is a wonderful seafood platter ($12.95) that

features an assortment of chilled shellfish and smoked fish served with

both a classic cocktail sauce and red pepper remoulade.

The house specialty, toasted artichoke hearts ($5.95), was also a

favorite of ours on a recent visit. Baby artichoke hearts are marinated

in herbs and white wine and broiled until slightly crispy. The wine herb

marinade highlights the mellow flavor of the vegetable without

overpowering it.

Rothschild’s offers several soups each day, including an excellent

lobster bisque ($6.95) that is loaded with large chunks of lobster meat

in a rich, creamy broth with just a hint of sherry evident in the finish.

We also liked the chilled cucumber soup ($5.95) that makes an appearance

in the summer; copious amounts of dill accent the delicate cucumber in

this refreshing first course.

The menu also features an extensive selection of pasta dishes, all of

which can be ordered as half orders for a first course selection. Beware,

as my friend Kym found out, full orders are easily enough for two -- I’m

sure a half order could serve as an entree for many.

All of the pasta is made on the premises, and the freshness of the

noodles is evident in dishes such as the Linguine Maremonte ($15.95).

Sweet crab meat and plump shrimp are sauteed, blended with mushrooms,

garlic and a touch of cream and tossed with wide linguine noodles. The

noodles have a beautiful golden hue from the fresh eggs they’re made

with, and there is just the right amount of sauce to bring out the flavor

of the pasta without being thick or cloying.

Chef Alizondo hasn’t changed the menu much during his tenure, so it’s

no surprise that he prepares his entrees with a deft hand born from an

intimate familiarity with his creations. I don’t usually order chicken

when I dine out, but I tasted my friend Karen’s Pollo alla Mustarda

($17.50) and was impressed at the delicate flavor of the boneless chicken

breasts that were sauteed in a light sauce of white wine flavored with

Dijon mustard. The chicken remained moist, and the mustard added a nice

bite to the mild meat.

Northern Italy borders Austria and Switzerland, and the cuisine of the

region borrows heavily from its neighbors. This is evident in the Veal

Rothschild’s ($22.95). Veal medallions are lightly breaded and sauteed in

a lemon butter sauce, and then finished with a compote of imported

lingonberries. The veal is cut slightly thicker than is typical, ensuring

that it remains moist and tender, and the sweetness of the berries is the

perfect foil to the slightly tart sauce.

Several fish specials are offered daily. If your waiter mentions that

they have calamari steaks, don’t hesitate. It’s said that calamari has to

be cooked for either two minutes or two hours; anything in between might

make good shoe soles but won’t be anything you’d want on your dinner

plate. Alizondo has the two-minute cooking technique down perfectly. The

calamari we were served was as tender as any I’d ever had. It’s typically

served with a tomato-based sauce, but try it instead with the wine,

butter and caper sauce that is served on the Scampi ($20.95). It’s

lighter, and I think it better brings out the delicate flavor of the

calamari.

Rothschild’s features an extensive wine list that boasts wines from

most of the world’s major wine producing regions. I was particularly

pleased to see several excellent wines from California’s central coast,

including a ’96 Sanford pinot noir, featured.

My only disappointment was the desserts, although the one that stands

out is worth noting. All but two are made off of the premises. Of the two

made in-house, their special ice cream dessert is a must. Rich vanilla

ice cream is served on a chocolate crust and topped with chocolate sauce

and fresh meringue. It’s a decadent treat that we all found ourselves

fighting over.

Rothschild’s is an elegant restaurant that has captured that elusive

recipe for long-term success. It’s the perfect place for a romantic date

or to celebrate a special occasion.

* Stephen Santacroce’s restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at food_critic@hotmail.com.

FYI

What: Rothschild’s

Where: 2407 East Coast Highway, Corona Del Mar

When: Lunch is Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday

brunch is offered from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner is Monday through

Sunday from 5 to 11 p.m.

Cost: Expensive

Call: (949) 673-3750