KATHY MADER -- Dining Review

* KATHY MADER’s dining review is published every other Thursday.

My friend Tara, hip to all that’s hip, has been talking about Side

Street Cafe on Newport Boulevard at 18th Street in Newport Beach for the

last eight years.

I have seen it, seen the Condom Revolution next door, concluded that

perhaps I am not hip enough and have driven right by. My loss, but

believe me when I say I am making up for it now.

This little restaurant fits the new definition of grunge, which

incidentally has nothing to do with dirt, but everything to do with

casual and comfortable. To the clientele, this means visible bra straps

and boxers with low, low-riding jeans.

Laid back, Side Street is. I mean our waitress served us in fluffy

elephant slippers. But their business is food and eating at the Side

Street Cafe is happening.

The entire restaurant is about the size of my living room. The tables

are tight and covered with eclectic tablecloths and vases. Hanging

plants, ceiling fans and family photos galore beautify the place, along

with an antique-looking tricycle in the corner. My favorite decoration,

however, is the sign that says, “Beware of pickpockets and loose women.”

It just makes good sense.

There are umbrellas and tables outside and, believe it or not, Newport

Boulevard makes for some good, if rather noisy, people watching. And you

can get a good line on who is going in and out of Condom Revolution. Not

that you would, but you could.

Side Street’s menu is massive, with pages and pages of interesting

items handwritten by server Christy’s mom. And I could take pages and

pages of newspaper to tell you about each item, but I would get hungry

and you would get bored.

The restaurant is only open for breakfast and lunch, but if you have

either one of these, you won’t need dinner.

Breakfast includes everything you ever knew about breakfast and more,

from omelets and scrambles to the “Good Ole Boring Standbys.” There is a

whole “Cheapskate and Proud of It” section, which includes hot cakes,

eggs and potatoes, with some variations, all for under $6.

Biscuits and gravy ($5.50); pork chops, chorizo and eggs ($7); and

huevos rancheros and roasted corncakes with jalapenos ($7) blur the

“Low-fat and Tasty” selections, yet they are there. I had to look twice.

You are on your own, however, if you order oatmeal or the “spa special.”

I am sure someone will share their bacon with you.

Some of the true breakfast highlights that we have tried are the

bacon, avocado and sour cream omelet served with potatoes and toast

($7.50), and the cinnamon rolls ($4), which are huge and delicious.

But the all-time breakfast standout, the Side Street destination dish,

is the “stuft” French toast: Hawaiian-style bread filled with a sweet

cream cheese and mixed berries. Mine had blueberries and strawberries. As

they say in the South, “Mercy.”

The lunch menu is no less interesting, with everything from sandwiches

and soups to fajitas, mega-burgers and a long list of salads.

Side Street’s “Terrific Sandwiches” include a zippy homemade chicken

salad on toasted squaw bread, a Cajun ham-and-cheese sandwich and the

best-selling turkey and avocado with freshly sliced turkey breast--”real,

not pressed.”

All sandwiches are $8, including soup, salad or fries. The hefty bread

in these sandwiches is worth mentioning. The squaw bread is dense, thick

and grilled so it is served warm. The tuna salad and the chicken salad

sandwiches are served on squaw bread, making them my No. 1 and 2

sandwiches.

But my husband, Brian, a carnivore to the bone, loved the pork

tenderloin sandwich; slices of pork covered with cheese and grilled

onions and topped with Russian dressing. A “crunchy sirloin salad” is

next on Brian’s list.

One of my very favorite things about Side Street is that the drinks

are served in large mason jars, so there is never any shortage of

hydration.

Oh, I almost forgot. There is a large vegetarian section on the menu.

There is something for everyone.

My one and only disappointment with Side Street is that it does not

offer any desserts. But with this, opportunity knocks. Order up that

stuffed French toast for a little slice of post-lunch heaven. I do.

Or just grab a sweet from the complimentary candy dish on the way out.

Side Street is noisy and happening. On weekends, there usually is a

15- to 20-minute wait, but keeping an eye on the latest fashions in

clothing and hair and the aforementioned Condom Revolution should make

the wait go faster. It’s worth it.

FYI

* WHAT: Side Street Cafe

* WHERE: 1799 Newport Blvd., Suite A105, Costa Mesa

* HOURS: 7:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. daily

* PRICES: Inexpensive

* CALL: (949) 650-1986