Community Commentary -- Kevin Egan
I awoke one recent morning to a number of phone calls informing me
that I was mentioned in Judge Robert Garnder’s column in the Daily Pilot.
The call from my brother, Dr. Bob Egan of Newport Beach, was one of
the most interesting.
“When will it ever end?” he said. “It has been going on for years,” as
if I was the source of a story about me.
I assured him, I am not currently doing any self-promotion. Because I
fell in love with a beautiful beach with unusually large waves and
attempted to ride them, I have been mentioned in books, magazines,
newspapers, on television and in various other forums over the years.
I enjoyed every second of my time at The Wedge and only hope I gave
the place and the waves their just due.
I am 54 now and fast approaching that point in life where someone will
want my picture on the beach with a member of the current young
generation of body surfers at The Wedge, instead of riding a wave.
There is more than one generation of young body surfers at The Wedge
and they know who they are.
They are a group of dedicated talented body surfers still trying to
conquer the unconquerable, searching for the wave of a lifetime. Their
talents go beyond riding waves and hanging out at the beach and their
dedication to The Wedge goes further than surfing. They are a ubiquitous
group of highly successful individuals. Businessmen, entrepreneurs,
artists, pilots, lawyers, scientists, techies and others brought together
by the common thread of a love of body surfing and The Wedge.
They are dedicated to preserving the history, legends, and the
integrity of the sport and access to the beach they love. There isn’t a
sign at The Wedge proclaiming it, but they take the responsibility of
helping maintain a clean and orderly beach.
I always enjoy Judge Gardner’s columns, especially when I am
mentioned. His columns often bring to mind great old memories of people,
places, events and a different time in Orange County.
It was a time when hot offshore wind blew into giant mountains of
clean water pushing their way along the jetty forming into crystal blue,
white crested liquid excitement for those willing to accept the
challenge.
It was a time when after an exhausting day riding waves you could go
to the old Chart House or ancient Mariner’s restaurants, or Woody’s,
Sid’s or any number of places where you would know your server and could
fill your stomach with top sirloin, lobster, stroganoff or great Mexican
food for under $4 and have enough in your pocket for a cocktail at the
bar with your favorite bartender or Blackie’s big beer on the way home.
Pray for surf and above all ... Mai Huli O’e I Kokua O Ke Kai!
(Respect the Ocean!)
* KEVIN EGAN is a resident of Dana Point.
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