STEPHEN SANTACROCE - Dining Review
Bistro 201 opened at the very peak of the highflying ‘80s. Real
estate was king, and affluent developers were stumbling over each other
on the way to the BMW dealer and boatyards. Up-and-coming restaurateur
David Wilhelm, still relishing the success of his first effort, Laguna
Beach’s Kachina, opened Bistro 201 in the heart of the Irvine financial
district, close to other trendy newcomers Bistango and Prego Ristorante.
The restaurant was an instant success. I should know -- at the time, I
worked on the top floor of the building that housed Bistro 201 and
frequented it often.
The menu featured innovative California cuisine that was new and
exciting, and no expense was spared on the upscale, intimate decor.
Bistro 201 moved a few years later to its current location on West
Coast Highway, and Wilhelm has since sold the restaurant and moved on to
other ventures. The restaurant recently changed hands and is now owned by
Hospitality Management Corp., a group that also owns Aysia 101 and Diva.
The new owners upgraded the decor, and it was money well spent. The
dated ‘80s look has been replaced with a more contemporary and tasteful
atmosphere. Pin spots and wall sconces provide soft accents, while
hardwoods and rich cream linens add warmth.
A large glass wall along one side of the restaurant offers a
spectacular view of Newport Harbor. It’s a perfect spot for a sunset
cocktail.
The original menu at Bistro 201 was innovative, taking risks and
exposing diners to new and unusual tastes. The new owners have opted for
a safer, more corporate approach that won’t offend anyone but left me
frustrated. I couldn’t help but feel there was a lot of unrealized
promise here.
The crab cake starter ($11.50) is a case in point. The two sea
scallop-size crab cakes served over a bed of greens were moist and had
enough crab meat to almost justify the high price. But the red pepper
coulis had so little pepper flavor that my friend Karen ate the entire
plate without complaining once -- and she can’t stand red peppers.
The grilled iceberg lettuce wedge ($6.95) would have been fine but
seemed a disappointment after the lofty billing offered by our server,
who professed it to be the best thing on the menu. Searing the lettuce
gave it an interesting, smoky flavor, but I couldn’t taste any of the
mustard vinaigrette the lettuce was supposedly marinated in.
The standout appetizer is the prosciutto-wrapped figs ($10.95). Thin
slices of the famous Italian ham are wrapped around caramelized figs and
grilled until the meat just starts to crisp. The tasty bundles are served
over a bed of baby spinach tossed with a light balsamic vinegar dressing.
The salty meat is the perfect complement to the sweet, plump figs,
creating a nice marriage of flavor and texture.
Chef Jeff Moore tag-teams between the company’s three restaurants, and
the result is a menu at Bistro 201 that lacks distinction or personality.
Moore has opted for a streamlined approach with his entrees, separating
the menu into two sections -- one featuring meats from the mesquite oven
and the other offering seafood selections.
While the decor may have been recently updated, the menu seems stuck
in the early ‘90s. Don’t believe me? The servers were proud to point out
that several of the items, such as the roasted sea bass ($21.95) over
lumpy mashed potatoes, have been on the menu for more than nine years.
Salmon ($19.95) is served wrapped in a potato crust with a citrus
butter pesto basil sauce. Sound good? Picture a perfectly good piece of
salmon wrapped in a soggy potato chip, and you’ll get the picture. The
sauce tasted neither of citrus or much of basil.
The rack of lamb ($24.95) fared better, augmented by a simple mint and
garlic reduction. The lamb was tender and cooked exactly as I ordered,
and the sauce featured just enough mint to tease my palate without
overpowering it.
There was nothing wrong with the filet mignon ($22.95), a 10-ounce
portion served over a toasted crouton with a bearnaise sauce, but it
didn’t set off any bells or whistles either.
Probably the best thing we tried was the surf-and-turf combo ($39.95).
Although expensive, this entree proved that sometimes simple is best. The
lobster was plump and sweet, and the aforementioned filet was perfectly
cooked.
The lack of creativity and innovation in the menu was also evident in
the wine list, which featured a relatively obscure selection of mostly
California wines. The ones I recognized were ridiculously overpriced.
You’d be much better off paying the $10 corkage fee and bringing
something from your own cellar.
If the chef has one moment of culinary perfection, it’s Bistro 201’s
chocolate souffle ($6.50). It was the best in town when the restaurant
first opened, and it’s still the best in my book. The rich, chocolaty
souffle is light and airy. At the table, the server punches a hole in the
center and pours in a generous helping of velvety chocolate sauce. The
result is a decadent, sublime experience that makes one realize why
souffles are worth the effort.
Our waitress suggested that some vanilla ice cream with raspberries
was the perfect accompaniment. She was right, although she failed to
inform us that this addition would set us back $7.50, $1 more than the
souffle! Oh well, suits me for not asking.
The original Bistro 201 came onto the scene with cutting-edge cuisine
that presented a taste that was fresh and invigorating. The current
incarnation offers a nicer setting and spectacular view, but is a toned
down corporate effort that features none of the inspiration of its
predecessor.
It’s like the voluptuous blond in a TV sitcom: pretty to look at, but
no substance.
* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.
Send him your comments at food_critic@hotmail.com.
FYI
WHAT: Bistro 201
WHERE: 3333 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach
WHEN: Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Dinner hours are 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and Saturday, and 5
to 11 p.m. Friday. Sunday brunch runs from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
HOW MUCH: Expensive
PHONE: (949) 631-1551
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