DINING OUT -- MARY FURR

As unsuspecting as Alice, we were swept by California’s first winter

storm into Au Lac, Fountain Valley’s only vegetarian restaurant. Here we

found not only a refuge from the storm, but a whole new concept of

vegetarian dining -- one with gourmet preparation.

Owner Mai Nguyen said the technique for Vietnamese cooking is more

traditional with “clay pot” cooking, as in the tofu clay pot sensation

($5.50), which the pot the vegetables are prepared is brought directly to

the table providing a truer flavor than when prepared in a metal vessel.

All the vegetables at Au Luc seem brighter and cleaner in color and

crispness. In the steamed jicama and in the tofu egg rolls ($3.95 for

four) the transparent skin is wrapped tightly around shredded vegetables,

the color showing through as if in cellophane. For the tofu, there is a

thick dark peanut dip and for the jicama, a mild fish sauce. Our helpful

server Jane Pham advised using plenty of sauce to enhance the flavor of

the rolls.

From the Chinese cuisine, I chose soy “chicken” with cashew nuts

(lunch $4.25, dinner $7.50), which is served with soy “chicken” soup,

celery, carrots and noodles in a clear vegetable broth with pieces of

faux chicken -- tasting and looking like real meat, though it has been

created from soy bean protein.

Mai says many mistakenly feel that a vegetarian diet lacks protein and

fail to realize the protein of soy beans. A mound of fried rice scattered

with peas and carrots mixes well with the “chicken” and cashews. Give

yourself up to the illusion and enjoy the clean fresh taste of zucchini,

baby corn, carrots and cubes of sweet nutty jicama.

From the “beef” selections, an excellent choice is soy beef (lunch

$4.25, dinner $7.50) with carrots, broccoli, celery and a big swath of

Bok choy -- Chinese cabbage with crunchy with stalks and deep green

leaves and a mound of brown rice with a nut-like flavor from the

nutritious bran coating.

After such healthful entrees, you can afford to be reckless with a

mile high mud pie ($2.95), a wonderfully dense cool mocha almond fudge

ice cream filling with a chocolate cookie crust. A less spectacular

dessert made by Chef Hung Nguyen is flan ($1.50) with nondairy whipped

cream and caramel sauce, more bland with less density than the regular

custard dish.

Mai believes a diner must enjoy what he eats to receive the full

benefit from healthy food and has dedicated her kitchen to the concept of

“healthy and tasty.”

“The body is not a machine,” she said. “Good food must taste good to

be beneficial.”

Au Lac, the French name for Vietnam, is just that, a vegetarian cafe

that serves gourmet food in a lovely setting of lattice ceilings hung

with grape leaves and big moon lanterns, a perfect refuge on any day.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

Au Luc

* ADDRESS: 16563 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley

* PHONE: (714) 418-0658

* HOURS: 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

* MISC.: Credit cards