Dining out -- Mary Furr

Do you like your o7 bruchetta f7 ($4.95) lightly toasted, topped

with juicy quarters of Roma tomatoes, strewn with basil leaves and

drenched with olive oil with just a whiff of garlic?

Then go to Roman Cucina on Pacific Coast Highway at 20th Street in

Sunset Beach.

Brothers David and Guiseppi Roman just opened a warm, friendly o7

cucinaf7 where family is not just a word but a relationship with each

other and the hungry patrons who fill the inside booths and tables and

the patio with heat lamps outside.

The o7 cucina f7 (Italian for kitchen) is warm, with rosy red walls

and wedding and family pictures of Mama Rosemarie, who runs Basillico

Restaurant in Huntington Beach.

David’s artist friend C.J. Lowe did the interior with a strong

masculine touch, which chef Guiseppi matches with his pasta and pizza.

The large-cut romaine leaves of the salad that precedes entrees are

well-coated with a light, homemade vinaigrette and showered with grainy

mozzarella.

The thin-sliced top round roast ($11.95) with a garlic-seasoned coat

is grilled in olive oil with a flavor mix that Guiseppi must have learned

at his mother’s side, a deep, soaked-in blend enhanced by olive oil. It

was served with ribbon-wide fettuccine covered with a thick creamy

Alfredo sauce. An excellent dish, the sauce was well-matched to the pasta

shape as it would be in Italy.

Quarters of Roma tomatoes cover the pasta o7 a la checca f7 ($8.95),

thin, thread-like strips of linguine and basil leaves to which I added

six plump, firm shrimp ($4). Freshness is a key to successful dishes and

this one has it all the way.

If a light lunch suits your schedule, try one of the five o7

paninisf7 ($8.95 and $9.95), sandwiches served with the house salad. A

homemade meatball in a crusty roll from C’est si Bon Bakery is covered

with fresh mozzarella. Add a bowl of Italian wedding soup ($3.95) with

its tiny meatballs and escarole in a light broth if it’s cool outside.

A made-on-the-premises dessert is o7 tiramisuf7 ($4.95), a full cup

of espresso-soaked cake with a dash of Kaluha and a thick, sweet o7

mascarpone f7 topping.

Cannoli ($3.95) is also homemade. The tubular pasta shells are

deep-fried with a sweetened filling of ricotta cheese mixed with bits of

chocolate.

The Roman family wants to share its table with you. Sister Christina

is there at dinner to help David, and they can always call on Daniela or

Marie Elena when needed. Don’t forget to check the life-size silhouettes

by the restrooms done by friend C.J.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions, she may be reached at (562) 493-5062.

FYI

o7 ROMAN CUCINAf7

* Address: 16595 Pacific Coast Highway, Sunset Beach

* Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and 11:30 a.m.

to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays

* Misc.: Credit cards accepted

* Phone: (562) 592-5552

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

* Tosh’s Mediterranean Cuisine, 16871 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach,

has added a buffet ($6.95) to its weekday lunch menu. It is served from

11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays.

* Le Jardin, 17431 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley, is rebuilding on

the spot where fire destroyed the French bistro last year.