MARY FURR -- DINING OUT

Sea Siam, a small storefront restaurant in Seagate plaza, at Bolsa

Chica Street and Edinger Avenue in Huntington Beach, is a refuge from the

stormy California “winter” weather, where except on an “off day,” spices

will warm you and the pace will slow you down.

Owner/chef Eddie Nanongkhai has created a menu of 89 combinations as

well as $4.50 Monday through Friday lunch specials with plenty to choose

from. Authentic Thai food has only one rule -- balance of the four

essences: hot, sour, salty and sweet. Traditionally all food is served

together “family style” for the diner to select his combinations.

At Sea Siam, it’s courses -- first healthful soups full of vegetables

in a clear broth. The hot and sour has large cuts of carrots, celery,

water chestnuts, peas and lemon grass (for flavor only, don’t eat it) in

a tart broth. The wonton soup is milder with vegetables and two fat

wonton pockets stuffed with minced meat.

With the dinner ($10.95) a crisp lettuce and cucumber salad is also

served dressed in a spicy sweet sauce with lots of carrot and coconut

threads giving it that distinctive Asian taste.

Ginger chicken, the entree chosen, combines plenty of chicken pieces

in a small casserole with carrots, red onion slices and potent ginger

slices -- peppery and spicy. Our server Jay Karnteeranont will serve it

with less ginger if requested.

An a la carte item we couldn’t resist was Wings of Angels ($5.50) --

stuffed chicken wings that resemble a drumstick filled with minced glass

noodles, chicken and carrots in a light coating. Its flavor improved when

dipped in the clear dark sauce of chopped peanuts served with it.

A disappointment was a “specialty” -- asparagus with shrimp and crab

claws sauteed in a soupy sauce with some fresh asparagus tips and lots of

slightly tougher asparagus spears. Best described as “skimpy,” there was

very little crabmeat in the claws and the shrimp were average size.

For dessert, a good substitute is Thai iced coffee ($1) made with

thick sweetened milk and ice served in a soda glass -- it’s very good at

Sea Siam, not to be missed.

When owner Eddie first bought Sea Siam from a family that wanted to

return to Bangkok, he was a hands-on owner/chef with exciting and fresh

recipes. On this visit, he was absent and, though the food was prepared

to his recipes, it lacked the creator’s touch. Though helpful Jay checked

our table occasionally, the restaurant was cold and dark like the

weather.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

FYI

SEA SIAM

ADDRESS: 16103 Bolsa Chica St., Huntington Beach

PHONE: (714) 846-8986

FAX: (714) 846-4543

HOURS: Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Closed Sunday

MISC.: Beer and wine served, credit cards accepted.