Much ado about attire
Young Chang
Heavy velvet and tights don’t have to go hand in hand with
Shakespearean-speak, as costume designer Walker Hicklin recently proved
on South Coast Repertory’s Mainstage.
Clad in romantic Hollywood attire reminiscent of the thirties --
styles flashing back to Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers movies -- the cast
of “Much Ado About Nothing” engages in witty Shakespearean wordplay while
seeming totally oblivious to the fact that they’re not wearing tights or
pumpkin pants or
Juliet caps or doublets, for that matter.
And the world around them more resembles the lavish parties held at
Gatsby’s place during the Roaring Twenties than it does Shakespeare’s
world.
Director Mark Rucker conceptualized the play, which opened March 2 and
runs through April 1, to set the language of “hath’s” and “I pray you’s”
in an art-deco society.
“I think he felt that by setting it into that romantic, sort of
musical, screwball comedy, Hollywood musical genre, it would fit very
well,” Hicklin said of Rucker’s idea. “We went for a lot of different
types -- the best friend, the good-time girl, the girl next door, the
sweet innocent.”
Hicklin, a Manhattan resident who studied design in England, rummaged
through flea markets and his own boxes of vintage goodies to create the
costumes. He took apart some pieces and put them together exactly as he
wanted it, keeping in mind his goal: men were to look like men, women
were to look like women.
“I think we tried to design clothes that would accentuate both the
male and the female form. It was all about the masculine, feminine
battle,” he said.
Nike Doukas, who stars in the role of Beatrice, has performed in the
play twice before. The first production was set at the turn of the
century, with a somewhat Victorian feel. The second was set in Spain, in
the late 1800s’s.
In her opinion, the feel of the current production works well --
especially because of the heels.
“I feel like the one thing you have to do when you do ‘Much Ado’ is
you have to have heels -- there’s something about the language and
characters,” Doukas said. “I think for this period it really works
because the play is so elegant and so witty.”
She and Hicklin agree on the importance of costumes to a production.
“Can you imagine, a play beginning and the actors just walking on
stage in what they came wearing to the theater?” Hicklin said. “Costumes
can make or break a play.”
Doukas raves that the costume designer understands “Much Ado” -- that
he’s read the work carefully and developed a specific vision for the
scene he wants to create.
“And he really works with you,” she said. “Some periods can be
laughable and all you can think about is how weird they look in the
costumes. But [Hicklin] is able to make everyone look good in the context
without looking silly.”
The costumer describes the “Much Ado” experience as “escapist.”
“I think it’s a great love story that also takes on the gossamer shine
and glimmer of a long bygone time,” Hicklin said.
FYI
WHAT: “Much Ado About Nothing”
WHEN: 8 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, 2:30 and 8 p.m. Saturday and 2:30
and 7:30 p.m. Sunday through April 1
WHERE: South Coast Repertory, 655 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa
COST: $28-$49
CALL: (714) 708-5555
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