STEPHEN SANTACROCE -- Dining Review

There’s a classic scene in Steve Martin’s 1991 romantic comedy “L.A.

Story” in which Martin’s character gets in his car, starts the engine,

drives along the curb for a half a block and gets out to visit his

neighbor. Southern Californian’s love their cars, and the geography and

layout of the cities dictate that we drive everywhere.

Given our mobile nature, it’s no surprise that one of the more popular

forms of dining is “grazing;” hopping from restaurant to restaurant

sampling appetizers and cocktails, and then moving on to the next stop.

As a restaurant critic, many of my meals out consist of lengthy,

multi-course affairs that allow me to sample a variety of the

establishment’s offerings. But I must admit, I’m a big fan of grazing.

It’s a great way to sample a variety of cuisines.

The act of moving from place to place sets an upbeat tone that makes

for a lively evening. And the atmosphere can be changed instantly by

switching locations. Start off at a few trendy crowded hot spots for some

high energy, and finish with desert and coffee at a more intimate setting

to end the evening.

Daylight saving time has added an hour of sunshine to the end of the

day, and the perfect start to an evening of grazingshould certainly

involve a view of the sunset. The Bluewater Grill on Lido Island (630

Lido Park Drive, Newport Beach, [949] 675-3474) provides a casual setting

and great view, as well as a wide selection of appetizers to start off

the evening.

Probably the best thing to do is ask the kitchen to put together a

seafood sampler for your table. For about $7 a person, they’ll set out a

platter with a variety of dishes including smoked trout and salmon,

chilled crab and shrimp, ahi sashimi and maybe some oysters or crab

cakes. Wash the collection down with a cold martini for a perfect start

to a night on the town.

Fashion Island features a slew of great restaurants, and it’s the

perfect spot to recreate the scene from “L.A. Story,” driving around the

parking lot from spot to spot. I should point out before going on that a

night of grazing, there should be plans to include a designated driver,

or better yet, a hired cab or limousine. Please don’t drink and drive, a

DUI is a sure-fire way to end any festivities.

P.F. Chang’s China Bistro (1145 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach,

[949] 759-9007) always has a lively crowd at its stylish bar and the menu

features several great grazing dishes. My personal favorite is Chang’s

Chicken in Soothing Lettuce Wraps ($6.25).

Spiced chicken is minced with water chestnuts and Chinese vegetables

and served on a platter surrounded with crisp lettuce leaves. The idea is

to scoop some of the chicken mixture into a lettuce leaf, drizzle with

soy, vinegar, or hot sauce (or a combination of sauces your waiter will

mix for you), and wrap the whole thing burrito style. The bartenders

recommend a good Chinese beer to cool your palate while pondering the

next stop of the evening.

P.F. in P.F. Chang’s creator Paul Fleming is also the founder of

Fleming’s Steakhouse and Wine Bar (455 Newport Center Drive, Newport

Beach, [949] 720-9633), the popular, upscale steakhouse. The bar at

Fleming’s has a clubby atmosphere, perfect for sipping one of the more

than a hundred wines that are poured by the glass.

Fleming’s offers several good appetizers, but don’t leave without

ordering the onion rings ($6.95). Inch-thick slices of sweet onion are

dipped in buttermilk and then dredged in seasoned bread crumbs before

being deep-fried. The result is a crispy crust encasing tasty, sweet

onions that are brought out stacked in a pyramid about a foot high. Be

careful ordering these in a crowd, it’s easy to loose a finger fighting

over the last one.

Sometimes a dish becomes so popular it seems as if it starts showing

up everywhere. Fried calamari, once a staple of quaint Italian

restaurants, is just such a dish. While I haven’t seen fast food chains

offering McSquid yet, it’s showing up everywhere else for better or

worse.

Two restaurants worthy of a grazing stop offer fried calamari that’s

definitely above average. Tutto Mare (545 Newport Center Drive, Newport

Beach, [949] 640-6333) serves probably the best calamari ($8.95) prepared

the traditional way.

Tiny squid ringlets are coated in a light cornmeal breading and

quickly fried. The result is light, tender morsels of crisp squid that,

as many times as I tried them, are never tough or greasy. I like to enjoy

an order with a Campari and soda and pretend I’m in a seaside resort on

the Italian Riviera.

For a more avante garde, but just as good, version of calamari check

out Oyster’s (2515 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar, [949] 675-7411).

Oyster’s twist is the popular Kung Pao Calamari ($8), a dish that pairs

the fried squid with spicy-sweet Kung Pao sauce complete with chopped

peanuts. Have James or Jorge mix you a lemon drop martini and enjoy some

live jazz by the Ron Kobayashi Trio while you polish of a basket of

these.

An evening of grazing wouldn’t be complete without desert, and two

souffle’s have to compete for the final stop on a grazing tour. Bistro

201’s (3333 Coast Highway, Newport Beach, [949] 631-1551) chocolate

souffle ($6) is still the best in town. A chocoholic’s dream, this rich

souffle is split tableside and the center is filled with a decadent

chocolate sauce and topped with fresh whipped cream.

Competing for top honors is the Harlequin Souffle ($8) at the Ritz

(880 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, [949] 720-1800). Half Grand

Marnier and half Belgian chocolate, this politically correct desert is

served with a Grand Marnier-flavored creme anglaise sauce. Finish this in

the Ritz’s elegant bar with the perfect after dinner drink, a chocolate

martini that’s so popular, the restaurant has printed up recipe cards to

take home.

Of course there are many places that I haven’t mentioned, and one of

the fun parts of grazing is planning a different itinerary every time

out, maybe setting a theme such as beach restaurants, or Italian only.

However you plan it, it’s a fun way enjoy a sampling of the area’s great

food and great restaurants.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at food_critic@hotmail.com.