MARY FURR -- DINING OUT

The metamorphosis of Main Street in Huntington Beach continues.

Nestled next to the long-established Sugar Shack, can you believe, is

Champagne, a French patisserie and cafe offering lunch and dinner. Just

opened is the Spanish Ibiza; next to it is Mono’s Margaritas and Taco

Bar, and coming soon will be a sushi and teriyaki grill!

Can this be the Main Street that 20 years ago was a nonstop route to

the beach? It is and Champagne French Bakery and Cafe was our destination

recently -- a deep storefront with a display case filled with jewel-like

tarts, eclairs, madeleines, Napoleons and biscotti. Inside are seven

tables that spill out to the sidewalk with nine more. It’s casualness

belies the high quality and authenticity of the cuisine.

Cold sandwiches such as the ham and Swiss cheese ($7.95) are served

with either organic mixed greens or potatoes sauteed with garlic and

parsley. Served on a flaky croissant, the ham was Black Forest, the

cheese thick Swiss, the mustard Dijon and all was piled, not with iceberg

lettuce, but some of the mixed greens -- spinach leaves, radicchio and

red leaf in light oil. Tuna ($7.95) is a great, all-white Albacore mixed

with onions and mayonnaise with slices of hard-boiled egg, tomato and

lettuce.

Combinations ($8.95) offer a small sandwich of your choice with a cup

of soup, small organic salad and baguette. Soups are fresh and slightly

different -- chicken vegetable has corn, lima beans and mushroom, and the

bean soup is a creamy green with string beans, not the usual tiny navy

beans.

Champagne doesn’t look like a place that would serve full dinners with

inventive flair, but don’t be misled -- this place is equal to some more

pretentious restaurants. Poached salmon with dill sauce ($9.95) is one

example -- the salmon is a moist, rich-flavored steak bathed in a

fragrant fresh green dill sauce served with rice pilaf and a mixed red

and green pepper and potato vegetable medley. It is excellent. Liane, our

young server from Brazil, asked if it was all right. It was!

A house specialty is chicken and mushroom o7 Vol au Vent f7 ($8.95)

also served with that organic salad. This dish, said to have been created

by a famous French chef, is a puffy pastry shell, like a small pot filled

with chicken and sliced mushrooms in a creamy sauce. The lid of the

pastry pot is covered with cheese and baked to a crusty brown. o7 Vol au

Vent, f7 which means “flying in the wind,” may describe the light

pastry, but not the delicious richness of the dish.

Who could skip dessert sitting by the display of exquisite cakes and

tarts, so we settled on the “burnt cream,” creme brulee ($4.50), a rich

eggy custard topped with a caramelized crust -- a great texture contrast

to the creamy custard beneath. Here, too, are big crusty, citrus-flavored

scones ($2.50) -- the best I’ve ever had -- a perfect breakfast with a

cup of hot coffee in a thick ceramic cup.

Master pastry chef Jacques Poutrat, owner of the restaurant, grew up

in the Champagne region of France, where he began a pastry apprenticeship

at 13. It is his recipes that dominate the menu at Champagne French

Bakery and Cafe. Opening Manager Emmanuel Murekeze said the company chose

Huntington Beach on Main Street because of its bustling restaurant

location.

This newcomer is one you’ll want to add to your list.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

o7

f7 Champagne French Bakery and Cafe

* WHERE: 215 Main St., Huntington Beach

* PHONE: (714) 374-7872

* HOURS: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Friday and Saturday.

* MISC.: 10% senior discount. Credit cards accepted. Catering.