KATHY MADER -- Dining

Seventeenth Street in Costa Mesa has got a new delicatessen. If that

doesn’t strike you as big news, let me say this -- a Donatelli Deli. Does

that ring a bell? Yep, the Donatelli family tree has branched out again

and the lasagna of today doesn’t fall far from the tree. Or something

like that.

Plainly said, Eastside Deli, on the corner of Santa Ana and 17th

street, has revived the original family recipes of the Donatellis of old,

and this meatball sandwich-loving community is the better for it.

Tom Donatelli, the man with the recipes, and his partner Kent

Alexander, the business guy, just opened the Eastside Deli about three

weeks ago with this one thought in mind, “Make it fresh.” And in the

course of interviewing them, I got the point -- everything is fresh,

fresh, fresh. “If we won’t eat it, we won’t serve it.”

They are very proud of the fact that the classic Boar’s Head brand

meats are delivered twice a week, the breads and produce are delivered

four to five times a week. The ground beef for the meat sauce and meat

balls is purchased from the mother of all meat stores, Celestinos. The

lasagnas and pastas, their specialties, are made fresh every day, and

Papa Donatelli, 80, comes down to make meatballs or just put his two lira

in. Yes, these are the very same meatballs that made the original

Donatelli’s such a hit in the early ‘80s.

The Eastside Deli looks like the classic deli, small and compact --

550 square feet to be exact -- nothing super elaborate, but with cases of

assorted meats and cheeses just waiting to be made into your favorite

sandwich.

The Deli’s goal is to be a market/deli/cafe where you can buy meats,

sliced and by the pound to take home, or stay in and have it made for

you. An interesting fun fact is that this deli has no freezer and no

microwave, physical proof of their desire for freshness. There are also

several tables and umbrellas set up outside on the grass for your

cafe-like enjoyment.

The menu is as classic and as uncomplicated as its surroundings, with

the sandwiches that put delicatessens on the map in the first place:

salami, capacolla, pastrami and corned beef, sausage and peppers, and of

course, the meatball.

If you can’t decide on one of the 20 sandwiches offered, go for the

No. 10, “Create your own” ($5.25). Brian had the BBQ ham sandwich

($4.95), shaved slices of black forest ham in barbecue sauce on a toasted

roll and served with a pickle. A very nice foreshadow of things to come.

Brian can’t wait to come back and try the entire barbecue trio -- ham,

pork, and beef.

Since I was trying to be a little careful, I ordered the feta cheese

and roasted red pepper salad ($6.50), which was good, but you know me and

salads. I am looking forward to the pizza bread ($2.95).

The Eastside Deli will have lunch specials offered every day. On the

day we visited, the deal was an egg salad sandwich (my favorite) or a

chicken breast sandwich -- the No. 18 with chips and a soda for $5.95.

Now you can’t beat that.

Because I had a salad, we also tried the lasagna ($7.50) and the

homemade cheese ravioli ($6.95) dinners, which come with a dinner salad

and no small amount of garlic bread.

This is Brian’s kind of deal, so we even ordered some to go. Backup

dinners for when I just don’t feel like cooking. I think we all know what

that means. Tip, if you want the lasagna for lunch, be sure to call ahead

so it is ready when you are, it takes about 20 minutes.

Catering is going to be a big part of their business with the whole

menu and more available, including that old deli staple, the six-foot

sub. Actually, they are game to make you anything you want for your

event, on or off the menu.

If your party requires 200 hot dogs with sauerkraut, they’ll make it.

I like that. If you have a craving for manicotti and they only have

mostacolli, talk to them about it. If you want to serve platters of

barbecue sandwiches at your next party and make like you made them

yourself, go right ahead. Oops, I may have just given away one of my best

secrets.

Either way, the Eastside Deli is anxious to please and sure to

accommodate.

* KATHY MADER’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday.

FYI

WHERE: 1720 Santa Ana Ave., Costa Mesa

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Saturday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday

HOW MUCH: Inexpensive

PHONE: (949) 631-1720