Dining Out

Mary Furr

There is no aroma that is sweeter in summer than that of barbecue,

whether it is from your neighbor’s backyard or the dining rooms of Tony

Roma’s opposite the Edward’s Cinema at Warner Avenue and Beach Boulevard.

Light floods the room from floor to ceiling wraparound windows with

booths in the center and window-side tables. This is a place where ribs

take center stage.

It’s hard to decide on an entree so begin with a great appetizer --

onion rings served in upright loaves (half loaf $3.99, full loaf $5.49).

According to the menu they are made from scratch with hand-cut giant

Spanish onions lightly breaded, deep fried, placed in a loaf mold and

then into a vat of 350 degree oil. Served piping hot, moist, crisp and

delicious -- just pick slices from the tangle for a shared delight.

But back to the entrees -- this time we indulged in the “Ultimate

Grill Power Combo” ($19.99). It has it all -- a half slab of Carolina

Honeys, pork spare ribs glistening with honey and dark with molasses; a

skewer of five big grilled, tail-on shrimp, not covered with batter just

brushed with lemon butter and spices with crisp flame-grilled edges. The

tender meat of the spare ribs just slipped from the flat bone.

Steak has been added to Tony Roma’s rib selection and the “Ultimate”

has a firm meaty 7-ounce top sirloin on a bed of fried onion topped with

a few whole, fat Merlot mushrooms. The taste of the shrimp and steak is

enhanced by any one of the four award-winning sauces on the table. There

is the original ketchup-based Florida sauce, a thicker smoky one, a dark

red hotter sauce and the sweet, honey baked sauce -- all of which can be

bought in carryout packs ($10.99).

Tony’s is a meat lover’s paradise though it now also serves a daily

fresh fish selection and several chicken dishes ($8.99 -$9.99) and some

tasty side dishes of barbecue beans that are excellent, and mixed cabbage

slaw.

There are three desserts -- apple crisp and skillet brownie ($4.99)

and “Short Attention Span,” a special that varies daily. A really

sensational mud pie ($4.99) was the one when we were there. Tony Roma’s

version is a two-layer slice of chocolate and mocha ice cream in a

crushed chocolate cookie crust scrolled with chocolate and caramel sauce.

It’s the ultimate to-die-for dessert worth every cent. A nice treat after

a movie.

There really was a Tony Roma in north Miami where Texas millionaire

Clint Murchison, Jr. used to eat while attending his Dallas Cowboy’s

games. He eventually bought Tony out and spread the word as he followed

his team around the United States.

FYI

Tony Roma’s

Where: 7862 Warner Ave., Huntington Beach

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

weekends

Phone: (714) 841-7427

Misc.: credit cards accepted

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.