STEPHEN SANTACROCE -- Dining Review

When the Daily Pilot was looking for a new restaurant writer a few

years ago, they invited interested readers to write a sample article

about their favorite restaurant. I didn’t need to think too hard about my

choice. I penned an article on Oysters in Corona del Mar and mailed it

in, never expecting to actually get the job.

Well, two and a half years later, I’m pleased to be writing biweekly

columns for the Pilot and just as pleased to report that Oysters is still

one of my favorites, offering quality food, cold cocktails and cool jazz

in a lively, energetic setting.

Perched at the busy intersection of Coast Highway and MacArthur

Boulevard, Oysters beckons diners with a cool-blue neon script sign and a

brick facade reminiscent more of Boston or San Francisco than Orange

County.

Inside, the restaurant exudes a casual sophistication. The most

prominent interior feature is the massive oak bar that runs along the

right side of the main room. The elegant structure was literally picked

up and moved to this location from Chicago’s legendary pump room in the

Ambassador East Hotel. It’s now the focal point of the often-crowded

restaurant and a great spot for a cold martini and some appetizers before

dinner.

The management at Oysters knows better than to tinker with success,

and blessed little has changed in the two-plus years since my last

review. The formula still works, and although some of the more fickle

party crowd has moved on to the latest “in” spot, Oysters still sports a

crowd on most nights. Loyal patrons make regular visits for dinner or

cocktails, and weekend reservations are definitely recommended.

Of the few changes made over the past few years, the most significant

is in the kitchen. Scott Brandon has taken over as executive chef,

imparting his own style judiciously into the menu, while wisely leaving

crowd favorites such as the Kung Pao Calamari ($9) intact.

Brandon brings impressive credentials to Oysters, including a stint at

San Francisco’s acclaimed Acquerello. Here he creatively enhances the

menu with a variety of flavors and ingredients, all with a hint of

Pacific Rim ingenuity.

A perfect way to start an evening is with a sampling of the

restaurant’s namesake mollusks. There is usually a variety of oysters on

the menu, priced at $2 each or $15 for an eight oyster sampler. Recent

offerings included firm textured, plump Coromandels from New Zealand and

salty Fanny Bays from British Columbia.

Most of the appetizers at Oysters are perfect for sharing, such as the

aforementioned calamari. This popular dish features crispy ringlets of

perfectly fried squid, tossed in a spicy-sweet kung pao-style sauce

complete with roasted peanuts, as opposed to the more traditional

marinara. I’ve yet to see a basket that wasn’t emptied in record time.

Other favorites include Ahi and Avocado Spring Rolls ($9) served with

a spicy ponzu-style sauce flavored with soy and rice wine, or the

Artichoke ($7), enhanced by a few minutes on the wood grill and

accompanied by a mayonnaise flavored with sambal, an Indonesian

chili-based condiment.

One item, listed as a side dish, that makes a great starter is a

Grilled Portobello Mushroom ($8) that’s basted in a teriyaki glaze, cut

in chunks and served on skewers.

Brandon is an adventurous chef and isn’t afraid to test his customers

with specials that might feature skate wings or some other exotic

offering. His most recent offerings feature Kobe beef, the prized

Japanese steak renowned for it’s perfect marbling and rich flavor.

The steak served at Oysters is domestically bred in Idaho from Wagyu

steer and is fed the same grain mix as in Japan. How special is Kobe

beef? These cows are actually massaged on a regular basis to ensure

uniform marbling.

This type of pampering comes at a price, and for $60 Scott is

currently serving a 6-ounce tenderloin filet seared on a flat iron grill.

It’s served on a bed of lemongrass-scented sweet corn risotto, surrounded

by a burgundy-colored veal stock reduction.

Restraint is not an ingredient in this recipe, and Brandon knocks the

whole thing off the charts by topping the filet with a velvety slice of

seared Hudson Valley fois gras. The result is a sinfully indulgent

mixture of flavor and texture.

The kitchen truly hits its stride with the seafood dishes, which

change frequently and always offer only the freshest fish. Sashimi-grade

Ahi ($25) is offered crusted with sesame seeds and seared rare, drizzled

with a wasabi-flavored buerre blanc (butter sauce) and a topping of

crisply fried spinach leaves.

Or try the Sea Bass ($25), oven-roasted in a sake and miso marinade,

presented on a potato puree surrounded by steamed soybeans and roasted

oyster mushrooms. The fish is roasted at a high heat, which allows it to

retain a moist texture without being undercooked.

Diver Scallops ($25), so called because they are harvested by hand,

are a treat when available, and they are now on the menu seared and

served with a salad of Satsuma oranges, which are a type of tangerine, in

a light miso dressing.

Those searching for the perfect beverage to accompany their meal won’t

be disappointed by Oysters’ extensive wine list, which was recently

awarded a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Sommelier Gibson Smith has

assembled a comprehensive listing of California wines notable for an

extensive selection of Cabernet Sauvignon. Almost 200 are listed,

including vertical offerings from several harder-to-find boutique

wineries. If you’d prefer to bring your own, there’s a $15 corkage fee.

Although the restaurant is on the pricey side, the portions are

generous and it’s easy to not leave room for dessert. I’d urge diners to

plan ahead and save at least enough space to share the decadent Chocolate

and Banana Souffle ($7) that’s accompanied by a scoop of banana-walnut

gelato, or the silky Creme Brulee ($6) that can be topped with

raspberries for an extra $2.

There isn’t much to dislike at Oysters. Sure, the dining room can get

noisy on a crowded night, but if you like things on the quieter side ask

for a table in the garden room, which is a bit more subdued. Oysters

consistently provides top-quality cuisine accompanied by an attentive

staff, accommodating bartenders and a lively setting.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at sdsanta@oc-dining.com.

FYI

What: Oysters

Where: 2515 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar

When: 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and

Saturday

How much: Moderately expensive

Phone: (949) 675-7411