KATHY MADER -- Dining Review

I am again breaking my resolve on never writing about chain

restaurants. However, in the wisdom that comes with old age, I have begun

to realize that chains are chains for a reason; people are interested in

them and go to them, again and again. In my defense, Wolfgang Puck’s Cafe

-- at South Coast Plaza and Fashion Island -- is less of a chain than

most chain restaurants, if that makes sense.

One of the best things about Wolfgang Puck’s in Fashion Island is that

it offers a good alternative to Cheesecake Factory, PF Changs and

California Pizza Kitchen, where the wait can sometimes reach two hours.

People seem to forget that if you just head into the heart of this

outdoor mall, there awaits a restaurant with a stylish patio that offers

a terrific view of all that is happening in this upscale shopping mecca.

You also get in on the live music performances and fresh air.

Both Wolfgang Puck cafes are beautiful restaurants, as creative as his

recipes. The trademark eclectic tile adorns both restaurants and brings

to mind confetti -- fitting if you consider eating a celebration, as I

obviously do. The interiors of all of Puck’s restaurants are unique and

defining, as well as a major collaborative effort between designers and

Puck’s own imagination. The results are hip and comfortable.

Another cool thing about this restaurant is that you get to find out

what Wolfgang Puck has been up to recently, especially if you haven’t

been watching the Food Network. The menu even points out his latest

innovations, and to read about them, you can’t help but wonder at his

creativity.

For a foodie, the menu is a great read, from pasta specials that

include pad thai -- a stir fry with snow peas, bok choy, ginger and curry

in a chili peanut sauce -- and fettuccine Alfredo Puck-style with Italian

bacon garlic and thyme, to the barbecue-glazed chicken, pan-seared salmon

and a whole line of signature sandwiches and main course salads.

Wolfgang Puck’s Cafe is a place to eat that is a consistent seven (out

of 10) and always imaginative. However, the night we went to do the

“official” review at the Fashion Island eatery, I must confess it barely

pulled off a five. They were understaffed, undercooked and under-polite.

But again, that was that night in particular, and we have had some

pleasant dining experiences there in the past.

Let me start with the desserts, because that is what you get to lay

your eyes on the minute you walk through the door. They thoughtfully

display their dessert finery just to get your palate prepped and your

mind pre-programmed and focused. The oatmeal crumble apple pie ($5.95),

the dark chocolate truffle cake ($5.95), the creme brulee sampler --

chocolate, banana and original, served with chocolate biscotti -- and the

banana split all look amazing. When in doubt about what to order on the

dinner menu, start here. In fact, start here anyway.

We, however, started with the fried calamari ($7.95) served with an

unusual, tangy curry-ginger sauce for dipping, which turned out to be a

really good decision. Butternut squash soup ($5.75) with a roasted red

pepper “swirl” followed and was a tad too sweet for my taste, but even

squash haters would find this palatable.

Brian, my companion, went for one of Wolfgang’s new “Adventures in the

Kitchen” recipes, which was a bacon-wrapped meatloaf ($12.95) with garlic

mashed potatoes, all in a port wine glaze. He sends his regards to Mr.

Puck.

I went for a squash doubleheader and ordered the roasted pumpkin

“mezzaluna” ravioli ($12.95), half-moon shaped ravioli in a brown butter

glaze topped with pine nuts and crispy sage, drizzled with port wine

sauce. It reads a lot better than it actually was. It seemed a bit oily

and missing some pumpkin stuffing.

However, you can always count on this restaurant for the bread and the

flat cheese crisps if your entree lets you down. And those heavenly

desserts.

* KATHY MADER’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday.

FYI

* Where: Wolfgang Puck’s Cafe. The South Coast Plaza location is next

to Macy’s. The Fashion Island location is next to Bloomingdale’s.

* When: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily

* How much: Moderate

* Phone: South Coast Plaza at (714) 546-9653, Fashion Island at (949)

720-9653