DINING REVIEW

Kathy Mader

I am always a little behind the times. I like to think only about six

months to a year ahead. But in the particular case of Totally Coffee and

Cafe on Mesa Verde East in Costa Mesa, I discovered that I am about 10

years behind the times.

In my defense, I would never know about anything that opens its doors

at 5:30 a.m. if it wasn’t for my husband Brian, the early golfer. My

first cognizant thought doesn’t usually occur until about 11 a.m., and

even then it is not fully formulated and ready for action until about 4

p.m. Maybe if I drank coffee.

“Wait a minute!” you say. “How dare you write about a coffee house if

you don’t drink coffee.”

Well if I have said it once, I have said it a hundred times, I am all

about the food, baby, the food. And once your have ordered your coffee,

so is Totally Coffee and Cafe.

Totally Coffee is a very casual and sweet-natured place. Right on the

menu it says, “We put our love for our coffee in everything we do, every

soul served, is a soul saved.” Now that’s sweet.

Totally Coffee’s decor is a cross between a country store, a Seattle

coffee house and cyberspace. Each wall is a different color. Each piece

of art is a little funkier than the last. You can play pinball while you

wait, or you can belly up to the actual bar and read yet another cool

sign that says, “If your coffee is not becoming to you, you should be

coming to us.”

Outside is a completely charming little patio that reflects none of

the cyber funk of the inside, and all of the appeal of any charming

outdoor patio. Whether you eat inside or out would depend on your mood.

Totally.

I can’t stress “casual and friendly” enough. When I called, the owner

was “out fishin’ ” so I talked to Tony, the self-described “just the

coffee guy” whom I later found out was also the cook, the “next best

thing to a manager,” and friend to all who enter.

For you coffee lovers, they have it all: mochas, lattes, cappuccinos,

espressos and chai teas. All hot or ice-blended, or half caf-decaf with a

lemon twist. Whatever you want. They also make a mean hot chocolate.

But what they are really dialed into, and this is where I kick in, is

their breakfasts. This is the real thing. The big stuff. The kind of

breakfast we used to eat when we worked the farm or rode the ranch all

day. Whatever you are thinking, yes, they make that. Even if it is not on

the menu, which things are often not.

They will make anything you ask, but they also offer a menu that

reminds you that the “great service combo” and the “great attitude mix”

are free of charge. Hey, they called me a beautiful lady. I’ll take it.

Any omelets you desire, they will make. The “Deluxe Krazy” omelet

proves that they have everything on site, because they put it all in this

one -- four eggs, loaded with meats and cheeses and veggies, “masterfully

cooked and created just for you” ($5.25).

Dave’s “Killer Mondo” egg scramble is “our way of saying you can do

anything for breakfast,” for about $4.50. But let me get to the list:

bagels, muffins and pastries, bagel sandwiches, egg croissants and

English muffin “delights” are all front and center.

Brian loves the breakfast burrito ($3.75, $3.95 with meat), which he

emphasizes is “big, really big.” But if it is too big for you, get the

breakfast taco ($3.50), a smaller, differently shaped version. Sure you

can get French toast, but go for the Spanish omelet ($3.95) or my next

order, huevos rancheros ($3.25), “just like in Cabo, served in a Spanish

deep plate with all the fixins’ and an accent.”

When in doubt, just ask the waiter what she would order, they won’t

let you down.

How did we find this place? Let me put it into perspective for you, it

is just down the street from Costa Mesa Country Club and right around the

corner from Mesa Verde Country Club. Every golfer needs to be well fed

for a good game, right?

Totally Coffee also serves soups and sandwiches, both of which are

basic, hearty and good. But again, with me, it’s all about the

breakfasts. As the menu says, “they may have a market on every corner,

but they’ll never corner ours.” Quite right. Totally Coffee and Cafe is

totally different and totally cool.

* * *

Just a quick reminder to everyone that tonight is Dine for America,

where a portion of all sales go to benefit the victims and families of

the over 500 food service employees affected by the World Trade Center

terrorist attacks. Hundreds of restaurants throughout the country are

participating with the goal of raising $5 million dollars. Call around

and find out if your favorite place is participating and then get out

there and do what I do best, eat! Check with o7 https://

www.911chefscare.comf7 or o7 https://www.windowsofhope.org. f7

* KATHY MADER’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday.

FYI

What: Totally Coffee and Cafe

Where: 1525 Mesa Verde Drive East, Costa Mesa

When: 5:30 a.m. to midnight Mondays through Fridays, 6 a.m. to “late”

Saturdays and Sundays

How much?: Totally cheap

Phone: (714) 435-9367