Dining out

It’s been pretty dark at Sunny’s Restaurant lately. An old man sitting

at the counter is ready to grab you if the big spider hanging from the

ceiling doesn’t catch you in its web.

But don’t fret -- it’s owner Summer Zervos’ way of celebrating

Halloween as her parents Cindy and Andy Zervoz did at Sunny’s No. 1

across from Golden West College.

It’s a lively, busy restaurant with a counter and booths leading to a

glass-roofed veranda dining area toward the back and two additional rooms

nearby.

There isn’t much you can’t find on the menu, from a breakfast omelet

with egg beaters to baby back ribs with honey molasses barbecue sauce

served with preparations ranging from East Asia salad to a San Francisco

melt. And what is most satisfying is the range of prices.

One lunch I combined a good mixed green salad and half a sandwich

($6.45) -- a No. 1 best selling all white skinless chicken on thick, dark

bread served with sliced melon that was just right -- substantial and

satisfying.

On another occasion we delved into the dinner menu for a half rack of

barbecued ribs and half a chicken ($15.95). One thing that stands out at

Sunny’s, according to manager Jonathon De Leon, is the portions. Across

my plate was half a breast, thigh, leg and wing topped with a half rack

of nine big-boned meaty ribs drenched in dark barbecue sauce made by chef

Tony Fagundez -- a texture like molasses but not sweet or too spicy, just

an underlying warmth.

Sunny’s serves a top sirloin steak with deep fried crunchy shrimp

($14.95). Again a generous portion of meat with three butterflied tail-on

shrimp. This is top sirloin cut from the more tender top loin muscle --

firm, about a third of an inch thick, but one that could have been

juicier.

At Sunny’s much is in the accompaniments that can overwhelm. There’s

soup -- chicken noodle or beef barley one time -- and a crisp mixed

iceburg and romaine salad. With these comes a small loaf of warm bread on

a carving board. The uncooked bread prepared by Bradford Company is

delivered to Sunny’s and allowed to rise over night before baking the day

it is served. It’s another homey touch that tastes great.

The entree has an ear of corn or other seasonal vegetable and rice or

potatoes -- after 3 p.m. you can choose baked potato or a yam. The chef

even tucks a tiny dish of vanilla pudding on the plate. There’s something

about Sunny’s that makes you want to surrender!

Zervos bought the Spire’s Coffee Shop in September, 1999, transforming

its menu to comforting Midwestern food and a myriad of dishes prepared by

chef Tony who has been with her parents’ Sunny’s No. 1 for “ages” says

the manager. Help in serving comes with brother Shado.

Sunny’s decorations for Halloween make it a fun place to take kids who

can eat for $3.95. Not only will they enjoy good food but also the huge

spider leering down from its web and skeleton heads popping out of black

caldrons. Perhaps they’ll be served by Shado. What more can you ask?

FYI

Sunny’s Restaurant

WHERE: 19810 Beach Blvd. at Newland Center

HOURS: 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily

MISC.: Beer and wine are served. Seniors get a 10% discount.