Wet and Wild with Rockin Fig

Rick Fignetti

As we head toward winter and the storm fronts movethrough, if you’re a

surfer, there are a couple things yamight just want to do.

This last weekend we got rained on twice. The water went flowing down

the streets to the storm drains and out to sea, on the way picking up

trash, debris, germs and bacteria.

Usually the first few storms are the worst, with the buildup of muck

in the gutters over the summer. During the storm, and a few days after,

you don’t wanna surf by the storm drains and river mouths because you

could get sick.

There are usually high bacteria levels afterward and it would be best

to let it dilute down and wash away.

Look to the big outlets like the Santa Ana River Jetties and the

border between Huntington and Newport to be flowing out in a murkier

plume. If you’re gonna go out by these flows, which I don’t advise, the

swell is normally coming from the north or south. Surf on the side that

you can see the runoff is going down the beach, away from you. If the

storm is big, you never know what might wash out -- I’ve heard of old

sofas and even dead cows, not to mention trees and lumber. When the surf

is good sized these things get dangerous, like when you’re paddling

through big sets and can’t see what’s washing in on the wave. Nothing’s

worse than a thump on the head, that could knock you out. So definitely

survey the lineup. The Huntington Beach lifeguards always have a good

idea what’s up out there, so if you’re unsure and ya see one driving by,

flag them down in their red jeeps and ask them what’s up. They know about

beach closures and other things that might be happening out there that

you should know about. Also, the SurfRider Foundation monitors most of

the beaches up and down our coastline for possible problems that might

occur with water pollution. We’ve got to give them a high five for all

their efforts to preserve, protect and enhance our coastal environment.

You too, can make a difference by watching what you wash into the streets

at your house and at work. No oil, chemicals or fecal matter should be

put down gutters, which lead to the storm drains, and to the ocean. As a

precaution after a surf, after the storm, take a shower to rinse off,

gargle with a mouthwash to kill germs in your mouth, peroxide open wounds

and according to Dr. Cole Fulwider, put white vinegar in you ears to kill

bacteria. He says that slows downthe chances of coming down with

something. The good news is, when we get these storms, we usually get a

swell with them too, so the waves pick up and sometimes there’s a silver

lining, when the wind dies down, right in the middle of the eye of the

storm, and it gets glassy and perfect. You just gotta be there, because

it only lasts a couple hours, and then that’s it -- back to the wind and

the rain and the storm and the chop. See ya, Fig over and out.

* RICK FIGNETTI is a six-time West Coast champion, has announced the

U.S. Open of Surfing the last eight years and has been the KROQ-FM

surfologist for the last 15 years where he’s done morning surf reports.

He owns a surf shop on Main Street. You can reach him at (714) 536-1058.