Dining out

Mary Furr

In times of stress we tend to turn to the familiar and what could be

more comforting to Californians than traditional Mexican food and the

kind served at Mario’s on Main Street, the kind we ate as a child? Even

the interior seems familiar decorated with exuberance. Walls are painted

with outdoor scenes, artificial palms are next to real ivy and

comfortable booths and tables fill the divided dining areas and cocktail

lounge.

And the menu is filled with enchiladas and tacos, burritos and

sizzling fajitas in combinations or a la carte. You can make your own

“fiesta combo” ($11.99) by choosing three from among tacos, tamales,

burritos or enchiladas. What’s better than to have a tamale with a good

balance of grainy masa around shredded beef covered with a dark sauce?

Add chile relleno (stuffed peppers) a Mexican specialty of creamy

cheese-filled green chiles, dipped in egg batter and fried until the

cheese is melted. Then for a third choice have a traditional taco -- a

folded crisp taco which, though a little tough, has a good shredded beef

filling topped with loads of seasoned lettuce, tomato and cheese. Spanish

rice and refried beans complete with the platter.

Carne asada (roasted meat) (dinner, $11.99), a grilled sirloin steak

about a quarter-inch thick is rather gristley in parts, more tender in

others. Sirloin is a cut of beef that lies between the tender “short

loin” and tougher “round.” Though well seasoned, this cut must have been

closer to the round than the loin. Papas are thick onions and pico de

gallo, a relish of tomato, onion, chilies and cilantro filled the rest of

the plate. A serving of tasty refried pinto beans added to a satisfying

platter. Like all good Mexican restaurants, the platter is very hot.

The desserts are the traditional flan ($2.89), a nice custard with

thin caramel sauce and deep fried ice cream ($3.39) more of a production

served in a goblet -- a ball of vanilla ice cream rolled around in sweet

cereal flakes and topped with whipped cream -- not too hard -- just

right.

Mario’s is a three-generation restaurant and George Colmenares,

grandson of founder Mario, says he has been around the restaurant since

he was a kid. Now manager, he has encouraged chef Celestino, a 17-year

veteran of Mario’s, to eliminate lard from the deep fried dishes and to

use more healthful canola oil. It’s a struggle, as he says, with grandpa

who wants to keep to the old ways.

Mario’s is remodeling but plans to remain open and to work around the

renovations, which will have a patio look, but the traditional dishes and

friendly ambience will not change. Mario’s on Main will continue to be a

place of comfort.

FYI

Mario’s Mexican Restaurant

WHERE: 18603 Main St.

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday

PHONE: (714) 842-5811

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail o7 hbindy@latimes.com.f7