DINING REVIEW

Jennifer K Mahal

The food looks positively sinful. But in actuality, the fare you can

find in the kitchen part of Mother’s Market and Kitchen is closer to

heavenly in more ways than just taste.

With its selection of organic and vegan cuisine, don’t expect to get

your traditional burger or meatloaf here. There is no meat in their

meatloaf or, really, on their menu (with the exception, it seems, of

tuna).

The restaurant has been part of Mother’s Market since the beginning in

1978, said Mo Payette, one of the presidents of the company. Payette

helped to create the current version of the Mother’s menu about 15 years

ago.

“We get more alternative requests now,” Payette said. “There’s a lot

more vegan choices and lower fat choices.”

There are four Mother’s Market and Kitchens across Orange County --

Costa Mesa, Huntington Beach, Irvine and Laguna Woods. All have the same

menu.

“Every couple years when we revise the menu, we take a poll and see

what customers want to keep,” said Payette, adding that the blackened

fish-free tacos are her favorite.

Getting to the dining area in the Costa Mesa store is a bit of a

challenge. It’s located deep in the back of the store near the deli, and

the signage is a bit confusing. But once you’ve gotten there, the service

is friendly and the atmosphere is somewhere between a cool cafeteria and

a family diner. Expect it to be bustling, especially during the lunch

hour.

The design of the space makes the dining area a nice retreat from the

grocery side. Its tables and booths are an easy place to unwind while

looking at the tropical wall decor.

Fresh juice at decent prices is one of the best reasons to go to

Mother’s, especially if you feel a cold coming on. An 8-ounce glass of

carrot juice with a secondary juice added in (for me it was ginger) will

only set you back $1.50.

The diverse menu includes pizza, Mexican food, pasta, sandwiches and

more. If you’re feeling the need to be really healthy, the soup and salad

combo is a good deal. For $6.25, you get a fairly large dinner salad made

with organically grown greens and featuring shredded beets for color and

flavor. Their miso soup, made with organic white miso, arame seaweed and

plenty of tofu, is quite flavorful.

While soy bacon does not have the texture of the real thing, their BLT

($6.20, with tax) is tasty. The organic tomatoes are robust, and the

lettuce is crisp. That same quality of vegetables makes their avocado

sandwich ($5.75), packed with avocado and sprouts on nine-grain bread, a

treat.

Sandwiches are made with tofu mayonnaise and served with a choice of

organic brown rice, nonfat cottage cheese, nonfat yogurt or tortilla

chips. You can substitute fruit for $1 extra. Better than your average

side dishes.

A recent lunch special was the open-faced tofurkey sandwich with

mushroom gravy ($6.95). Served with creamy garlic mashed potatoes and a

side dish of apple-cranberry compote, the tofurkey came close to the real

thing. Again, the texture isn’t the same as meat, but the taste -- a

blend of spices and smoke -- was yummy. As comfort food for the healthful

set, it was a hit. Even if it did need salt, thoughtfully provided on the

table along with a number of other condiments.

No excursion to Mother’s would be complete without dessert. The

chocolate truffle cake ($3.59) is a rich concoction made with organic

flour, barley-sweetened chocolate, fruit juice and more. But beware, it

also contains butter and eggs. Packed with chocolate chips that melt upon

contact with the tongue and frosted with thick, creamy fudge, the cake

should be shared with a friend.

Mother’s makes health food seem oh so good.

* JENNIFER K MAHAL is features editor of the Daily Pilot. She may be

reached at (9490 574-4282 or by e-mail at o7

jennifer.mahal@latimes.com.f7 Kathy Mader, whose dining columns appear

every other Thursday, is on vacation.

FYI

* WHAT: Mother’s Market and Kitchen

* WHERE: 225 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa

* HOURS: 9 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. daily

* HOW MUCH: Inexpensive

* CALL: (949) 631-4741