Wholesome Ho Sum Bistro fixes the Chinese food cravings

Kathy Mader

I may be preaching to the choir here. In fact, if you have eaten at Ho

Sum Bistro on the Balboa Peninsula before, I know I am. But try not to

hold it against me that I think everyone should know about it, not just

the regulars. Ho Sum Bistro, a name that is a play on the word

“wholesome,” specializes in what it calls light and healthy

“Califoriental” cuisine. Good word for good food.

You walk into the brightly lighted, white-tiled eatery, with both

tables and seating at the counter, and it smells like it’s supposed to.

Not like there has been a recently doused grease fire or that heavy oil

odor that comes with some Chinese restaurants. Ho Sum smells of excellent

spices and tasty dishes. Bottom line, it has that “Boy, am I glad we are

eating here” smell.

Those of you who go to Ho Sum, go a lot. I have a friend Meghan who

moved away from here years ago, yet every time she comes she plans, and I

mean on paper, how she can maximize her Ho Sum visits. She averages three

of their famous Ho Sum chicken salads a trip. Ho Sum is that kind of

place. Addictive.

If I haven’t convinced you, let’s say we all know you are supposed to

have certain cravings when you are pregnant. Well, since I have been

pregnant, my husband, Brian, has craved this place once a week. Go

figure. It’s that kind of place.

Ho Sum Bistro is inexpensive and very good. Yes, it’s healthy. Now

that I’m past that verbal roadblock, I enjoy it every time we go. There

are a couple of items we always order, and then we attempt to try one or

two new things.

The aforementioned Ho Sum chicken salad is probably its No. 1 item, as

everyone seems to have one on the table and the phone rings fast and

furious with takeout orders for the same. It is a salad of roasted and

finely shredded chicken tossed with lettuce and a might tasty red ginger

dressing. Their other salad, the sesame seed chicken salad, is equally as

popular, and those in the know go for the “combo” salad, which is half of

each ($5.25/$8.28).

The other item on our “always order” list is the combination fried

rice ($6.45), with chicken, beef and pork -- the best fried rice I have

ever had. I know “them’s fightin’ words,” but I am willing to back it up.

It is light, not oily in the least and a flavor bonanza. Yes, bonanza.

You may recall that Ho Sum’s Pho Phun noodle soup ($4.95/$6.25) made

my list of top 10 soups in town, with its chewy Chinese rice noodles,

fresh vegetables, shredded chicken breast and sweet shrimp in a rich

broth. ‘Tis the season for this soup, my friends.

Ho Sum’s dim sum is yum yum, and they have a long and interesting

list, from (my very favorite) chicken dumplings in a spicy cilantro sauce

to lobster wontons and spring rolls. The very best way to try all of

these is at the restaurant’s Sunday brunch. Don’t go expecting eggs

Benedict or waffles, this brunch is all-you-can-eat of almost all they

serve. And no, there is no buffet, no line, no sneeze screen. All food

during this time is made for you as you order. It includes salads, soup,

all of the dim sum choices, and the delectable fried rice, with champagne

to boot, all for $15, including tax. This is the deal.

Ho Sum also makes all the traditional favorites, such as Szechuan

chicken ($5.95), kung pao noodles, a variety of lo meins (noodle dishes)

and a very excellent mu shu ($5.95) -- chicken, veggies or shrimp

sauteed, rolled into thin crepes and served with a plum sauce that makes

life worth living.

But it is the dim sum that gets me there, and it is those salads that

seem to get everyone else there. You must try the candied pecans for

dessert, I would order these by the pound if I could.

Ho Sum has some nice lunch specials, where you can get a half-order of

either salad and a half-order of fried rice for $6.25. This is another

great deal, and I just know Brian sneaks down there quite a bit of the

time. Did I mention they have takeout? Get it any way you can, Ho Sum

Bistro is just plain good.

* KATHY MADER’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday.

FYI

* Where: 3112 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach

* When: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Friday and Saturday

* How much: Inexpensive

* Phone: (949) 675-0896