Dining Review

S.J. Cahn

My dining companion put it succinctly: “I like the jellyfish.”

The resin sculptures of the tentacled undersea creatures are just the

tip of what’s to like at the new Cannery, which reopened earlier this

month after more than two years with new owners and a slightly retreated

menu.

Now called the Cannery Seafood of the Pacific, the restaurant still

features a whole host of taste-bud brightening fish dishes, as well as

good old-fashioned turf items, such as Texas barbecue pork chops ($22.50)

or aged bone-in rib-eye steak ($29.95). Plus, the upstairs bar area

offers sushi for those who don’t feel the need to have their dinner come

near a fire.

After a pleasant welcome at the door, we headed up to the bar to wait

for our table. The decor, as advertised, is hipper than it was at the old

Cannery. It made for a scene that was both intimate and roomy, with music

just low enough to carry on a conversation.

And there was a lot of talk going on among the mix of young people,

looking intent on their fates, and the comfortable middle-aged couples

sipping martini-inspired concoctions.

At the bar, we experienced the only glitch of the evening when one of

our drink orders appeared wrong. By that time, our table was ready, so we

headed downstairs.

And everything picked up markedly. A quick glance at the one-page menu

-- all while chomping on some crusty, favorable bread -- suggested that

they know what they do well and stick to it.

It was better than advertised. We started with two appetizers, shrimp

cocktail ($12.50) and black and blue ahi tuna ($9.95). We also were

tempted by the baked almond-crusted goat cheese ($8.75), which our waiter

recommended, not to mention the oysters ($9.75) and calamari ($8.95).

The shrimp cocktail arrived first, presented nicely with a strong --

but not too strong, at least for us spicy food lovers -- sauce. It left

the tongue nicely alive, and definitely wanting more. The shrimp was

plump, crisp and flavorful.

The tuna appeared on a bed of fresh baby greens with a delicate

vinaigrette that let the tuna’s body fill every corner of your mouth.

Even after the strong shrimp cocktail, the tuna managed to taste both

refreshing and hearty, no mean feat that.

The only possible complaint to make about either was just to want more

of everything.

That sentiment would quickly disappear as we made our main course

selections.

My dining companion chose something new to her: Chilean sea bass

($21.25). It came with sea scallops, Roma tomatoes, red onions and sweet

peppers in a cilantro-lemon butter. The bass fell from her fork in

flakes, cooked to perfection, light and flavored with just a hint of the

accompanying items. It was crisp on the outside but delicate within.

It was nothing compared with my main dish. I decided on one of the

Cannery’s featured items: the Cannery cioppino ($27.95). It didn’t take

long to realize why they highlight this dish. Complete with crab, shrimp,

clam, mussel, calamari and other fish in a spicy tomato broth, it was one

surprising and delightful bite after another. Remarkably, each different

seafood was cooked just right and retained its own flavor -- the clam

tasted like clam and the shrimp like shrimp -- despite the robust,

olive-oil infused broth, which I could have drunk by the gallon.

As we debated what wine to drink when placing our order, our waiter

was very helpful, listening to our desire for a strong, full-bodied red

and suggesting a zinfandel instead of the typical cabernet. It came to

good effect and was the perfect between-bite balance for both meals.

Throughout the dinner, I’m happy to report, the service was prompt and

helpful, striking that desired balance between too much and too little

attention.

By the time we were finished with our dinners, I have to admit, I was

ready to quit. The cioppino was absolutely delicious but also incredibly

rich and filling. But I knew Pilot readers would want to know: How’s the

dessert?

Given the two we had, I’d push for going all out with the main course.

The chocolate molten cake I had ($7) and the Aunt Grazie’s fresh fruit

martini ($6.50) my companion chose were both good, but maybe all the

rich, luscious food we’d already consumed just couldn’t be followed by

dessert. The espresso and latte were both spot on, though.

It was, all in all, one fine meal. And with the restaurant’s fine

decor, good service and prime bayfront location, happily there seems to

be one good thing to come from the closing of the old Cannery: The new

Cannery is here. Check it out.

* S.J. Cahn is the senior city editor. He can be reached at (949)

574-4233 or by e-mail at o7 steven.cahn@latimes.comf7 . Regular dining

critic Steven Santacroce is on vacation.