Dining Review -- S.J. Cahn

Going out to dinner is easy. Pick a place, maybe make a reservation,

hop in the car -- or, if you’re lucky, take an easy stroll -- and you’re

there.

Finding a dining experience usually is tougher. It’s got to have more

than fine china and crisp, clean tablecloths. There has to be much, much

more than a satisfying meal. Fortunately, in Newport-Mesa there’s

Marrakesh, which will fill any thirst for an experience and a meal.

Located at 1976 Newport Blvd., the Moroccan restaurant’s red sign acts

as an unusual tease as drivers head down onto the Costa Mesa Freeway.

That tease is, literally, just a sign of things to come.

But first there has to be a few words of warning -- in no way bad, but

of the “know what you’re going to get” variety. Don’t expect plates of

ethnic cuisine served up in an American atmosphere, as you would get at

an Indian, Thai or Chinese restaurant.

Those are dinners, you see. And we’re talking about a dining

experience. At Marrakesh, you’ll be seated at a low, low table on low,

low chairs or at low, low cushioned benches. You’ll be surrounded by faux

tents, which give an accurate sense of actually being at the northern

edge of Africa. There’s a belly dancer (not really a Moroccan import, but

clearly a crowd-pleaser). The music is authentic and not quiet, though it

doesn’t interfere with conversations.

Oh, and unless you ask otherwise, you’ll be eating with your hands.

But trust me, it’s worth it.

Once you’re seated, you’ll be treated to a bit of Moroccanhospitality

-- in the case of our meal, that meant our waiter took a seat at our

table as he explained the menu, all five to nine courses of it, which

costs, depending on the size they’re serving that night, between $20 and

$25. You get your choice of main dish -- lamb, chicken, halibut, quail

and duck were our choices -- but otherwise you just sit back and let them

bring you an array of delightful and, at least at one point, wholly

surprising dishes.

First off, though, comes a quick and necessary communal washing of the

hands, which nicely gets everyone at the table used to the idea of

sharing what’s to come.

And then the fun begins. First comes a vegetable soup with chick peas.

It has a strong spicy flavor in a rich, tomato broth that would be even

more fabulous if it were bigger -- or so you think this early into the

meal.

A salad shows up next with a light, refreshing vinaigrette dressing,

complete with cucumber, potatoes and an eggplant puree that opens up the

taste buds. Your bread acts as your fork but, after a mouthful, that

won’t stop you from digging in.

At some point along the way, times may vary, the music will take on a

more rhythmic beat and you’ll hear the sounds of bells ringing. And then

the belly dancer will show up. She definitely focuses on the bigger

tables, where parties of people egg each other on, get up and, for lack

of a better term, dance.

Following the salad comes what I think is the clear highlight of the

meal. It’s called bastilla, and you likely haven’t run across anything

like this pastry before. Try to imagine a light, cinnamon-sugar pastry

with chicken . . . hard to do, and at first it is a cacophony of tastes

to the Western palate, But once you settle in, it’s an amazing entry into

a completely different way of putting together spices. It’s difficult to

describe but not difficult to enjoy and is the best example of Moroccan

cuisine, where a little flavor isn’t the goal. It’s a constant big

flavor, which throughout the meal builds interestingly upon what’s come

before.

Once you’ve finished the bastilla, you’ll probably notice something

unexpected: You’re getting mighty full. But still to come is a wonderful,

light couscous and kabob dish that once again showcases strong flavors on

a delicate backdrop.

And then comes the main course. The choices are all powerfully spiced,

dramatic dishes. The quail on one trip was especially good as it

provided, again, a contrasting plate of flavors, which is when Moroccan

food is at its best.

The meal winds up with a little baklava and fruit for dessert, plus my

other favorite part of the meal. Poured with panache from as high above

the glass as possible, mint tea has provided more literary litanies than

just about any other nonalcoholic beverage. It’s served with a big

helping of sugar to cut the bitterness of the mint and is just a fun

drink to down.

And fun’s really the operative word here. It’s a fun dining

experience. If you look around at your fellow diners, you’ll find an

unusual number of celebrations -- birthdays, anniversaries, etc. That’s

because Marrakesh is a great place to go to enjoy something a little

unusual, and right here in our backyard.

* S.J. Cahn is the managing editor. He can be reached at (949)

574-4233 or by e-mail at o7 steven.cahn@latimes.comf7 .