Dining Review -- Lolita Harper

Thankfully our waiter was extremely attentive and never let my glass

fall below half-empty because my mouth was burning after a few bites of

Wingnuts’ delicious buffalo wings.

Don’t misunderstand me. Burning is a good thing, especially when the

wings are touted to be “hot.” There’s nothing worse than expecting an

eye-watering experience and getting your typical

let’s-please-everybody-with-a-generically-bland sauce. That won’t happen

at Wingnuts, 3030 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa, which specializes in all

things wings.

Airplanes dominate the restaurant’s decor, and the walls are covered

with photographs, murals and magazine covers featuring the flying

machines. Wingnuts just landed in Costa Mesa a few weeks ago, filling out

the sparse real estate in the Target Greatlands center.

The entrance leads directly to the bar area, which has two wide-screen

and four small-screen televisions with a variety of sports programs.

Restaurant seating is on both sides of the bar and, although there are

smaller televisions in the dining rooms, it is easy to escape the

“sports” feel if you are in the mood for a quiet dinner.

While the chefs are experts with wings, the menu is not lacking in

other areas. Our appetizer of blackened chicken fundido ($4.75) -- a

cheesy, spicy sauce with chunks of chicken -- was served with crisp

tortilla chips, perfect for dipping.

For the main course, Wingnuts also offers salads, sandwiches and ribs.

We chose wings to sample the true essence of the menu.

The menu description for the buffalo wings were completely accurate,

with a choice between mild, medium, hot and ouch. Brandon, our server,

warned us about the “ouch” wings. I can only imagine the scorching taste

that accompanies that moniker.

The plates, which range in size from 10 to 100 wings, correspondingly

ranged in price from $6.95 and $39.95. My dining companions -- my friend

and my 2-year-old son -- and I feasted on three of the 30 flavors of

wings: buffalo, chipotle barbecue and kung pao.

Although we ordered “taster” plates of all three, we still had two

take-home boxes at the end of the meal. It wasn’t for a lack of trying.

Each flavor was so delicious, we tried our hardest to finish them off.

Each wing was so meaty, we realized we should resign our attempt to

further expand our waistlines and save the rest for a tasty lunch the

next day.

Only three lone chipotle wings remained at the end of the dinner,

proving our favorite flavor. Buffalo wings came in second, leaving us

with mostly kung pao leftovers.

I assumed the kung pao wings would carry the same heat as the

traditional dish. They did not but instead offered a uniquely Oriental

flavor that was still mouth watering. Because I have an affinity for the

spicier things in life, I focused my attention on the chipotle barbecue

and buffalo wings.

If it matters to you if the restaurant is kid-friendly, the answer is

a resounding yes. My son -- at times the world’s most finicky eater --

devoured his “young flyers” cheeseburger, which was no small feat,

considering the patty was adult-sized and served with a mound of

criss-cut fries ($4.99).

For those of you who shudder at the thought of 2- and 3-year-olds

running around with their gooey little fingers poised to land on your

newly laundered khakis, take heart in the fact that the hostess seemed to

seat all the families on one side of the restaurant.By the time the

subject of dessert came up, we had already loosened our belt buckles. As

tempting as the hot cranberry-apple cobbler sounded, I simply could not

fathom the thought of another bite. If the food was any indication, the

desserts are most likely heavenly.

One of the best things about the restaurant is bland and completely

nonpalatal: the napkins. They are thick, strong and well-equipped to rid

your hands of tantalizing wing sauces. Sauces that are so good, you’ll be

tempted to forego the napkin and just lick your fingers.

* LOLITA HARPER covers Costa Mesa. She may be reached at (949)

574-4275 or by e-mail at o7 lolita.harper@latimes.comf7 . Regular

dining reviewer Kathy Mader is on vacation.