Dining Out -- Mary Furr

When spring comes, my adventure-seeking heart leaps at thechance to

discover another culture, another cuisine. Chimayo at the Beach, nestled

at the base of the Huntington Beach Pier, is an exciting place on Sunday

morning, attracting natives and tourists. It’s the restaurant right on

the sand, downstairs from Duke’s and aglow with the sunset colors, burnt

oranges with copper and purple overtones.

The interior, oblong shaped like a surfboard, has glass-protected

patios, a three-level dining area with booths and tables facing the

beach, a bar and near the entrance an open kitchen commanded by

innovative chef Thomas Tran. Tran, who has been at Chimayo since its

opening three years ago, creates a cuisine that rivals the panoramic

view.

The Sunday Champagne Brunch ($24.95) is a three course affair that

varies from a “design your own” that begins with champagne or mimosas and

proceeds to a choice of appetizers, entrees and desserts.

The shrimp cocktail is one of the best around -- a big bowl filled

with firm pink bay shrimp, cubes of juicy papaya, avocado and celery in

the most wonderful sauce that lingers on the tongue with its mild spicy

warmth.

Another appetizer is a bowl of fruit with a quarter fuzzy kiwi, melon

cubes, berries and mandarin orange segments with a blob of yogurt on top

-- mixed with fruits, it’s healthful eating the easy way.

With a bow to New Orleans and Creole cooking, the jambalaya entree is

a versatile dish combining rice with corn kernels, peas, bits of tomato,

green and red bell pepper slices and spring onions with shrimp. Italian

sausage slices and charred chicken pieces in a confetti of color, texture

and taste defy its simplicity. It’s the dish popular with southern

families created from yesterday’s leftovers.

The roasted chicken breast is a trendy “edible edifice” beginning with

a mound of cheddar mashed potatoes, covered with fresh large spinach

leaves and topped with the sage-rubbedchicken breast all surrounded by

ancho-honey jus. The rich, slightly sweet ancho chile combines well with

the honey -- it’s sweet but not cloying.

An excellent choice for dessert is the simple mango sorbet in a crisp

almond-flavored tulip-shaped cup holding three scoops of ice. The

freshness and purity of flavors make this dish. Even simpler is the creme

brulee, a thick creamy vanilla pudding topped with a brown-sugar glaze or

crust decorated with strawberry halves. These are classic desserts done

well.

According to Manager John Sanchez, Chimayo’s Sunday Brunch will

celebrate Cinco de Mayo with a new “Voodoo Festival” menu that will have

the “the usual favorites but with a spicier edge.” This is not the place

for a quick meal, but rather one to drink in the view with the

margaritas, listen to the mariachis and spice up Sunday morning with

brunch at the pier.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail o7 hbindy@latimes.com.f7

FYI

o7 Chimayo at the Beachf7

WHERE: 315 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach

HOURS: Lunch: Monday-Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday Brunch, 10 a.m.

to 3 p.m. Dinner: Monday-Friday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 4 to

10 p.m.

PHONE: (714) 374-7273, fax (714) 374-7263