Dining Review

Glori Fickling

Savoury’s, a truly artistic embellishment to Laguna Beach’s historic

Hotel del Camino, launched late last year with a four-day celebration,

and it epitomizes the ultimate dining experience.

Conducive to our renowned art community, the menu states emphatically:

“The arts are not complete without the art of food.” Thus, deliciously

creative offerings commence upon seating with a welcoming presentation of

twin foccaccia bread sticks towering next to butter rosettes seasoned

with wasabi and tomato and a perky scallion sprig.

Similarly, the splendid array of offerings to follow are equally eye

appealing, including sparkling lemon-swirled “birdbath” martinis.

The artful creation of Executive Chef Brad Toles and charming General

Manager Dawn Wilson, who personally designed and created the tasteful

interior, Savoury’s comfortable setting boasts a friendly bar at one end,

a display kitchen at the rear and arched window-doors that open for an

alfresco view of Coast Highway’s bustling traffic.

With a coterie of five capable chefs staffing the kitchen, it’s little

wonder how ambitious is the imaginative new menu, which debuted a mere

week ago. That the attentive serving staff is knowledgeable of each

extraordinary recipe attests to the caring communication between kitchen

and service staff.

A dozen starters and 18 entrees include a quartet of holistic

selections to captivate the health-conscious. Plump grilled portabello

mushrooms are layered with savoy cabbage, roasted pepper, artichokes and

a montage of earthy vegetables. The creation is teamed with garlic

mashed potatoes, broccolini and a pinot noir reduction.

Fresh vegetables, in fact, are major in most selections. Baby carrots,

and green and wax beans are piled atop a succulent rib-eye steak grilled

with Stilton bleu cheese, fingerling potatoes, then contrasted with the

savory crunch of apple streusel, blackberry-onion marmalade then crowned

with a pair of al dente shrimp.

Similarly comes herb-crusted lobster chunks with spicy ginger curry

nestled atop cucumber micro green ponzu salad, a crisp rice cake, wasabi

scallion mashed potatoes and broccolini. To individualize each, an

assortment of colorful plates in varying shapes and designs frames every

dish. Graceful, silvery flatware is a further complement.

Of special note are the intriguing appetizer and dessert choices: a

tempura sushi roll, sesame ginger crab cake, ahi cornucopia, polenta

filled portabello. Not to mention the Caesar salad swan in the form of

that graceful bird or the “infallible aphrodisiac wild mushroom soup”

with black truffle oil and creme fraise.

Do take to heart the admonishment “save room for dessert,” bearing in

mind such delectable as poached pear encroute with vanilla bean ice

cream. The talented staff may even honor a request to sample a selection

of tastes because Savoury’s offers a full catering service.

Thus it is a definitive showcase for the creations of Chef de Cuisine

Felix Barron IV, Pastry Chef Karen Oliphint, Holistic Chef Mark Cleveland

and Executive Sous Chef Rodrigo Dearaujo.

Their starters range from $9 to $22, entrees $23 to $36.

FYI

SAVOURY’S

WHERE: 1287 S. Coast Highway

HOURS: Open 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday

PHONE: (949) 376-9718