Dining Out

Mary Furr

The Red Pearl Kitchen, opened recently on Walnut Avenue in Downtown

Huntington Beach, seems a contradiction in terms. It’s as unusual in

concept as a rare “red pearl,” and at the same time as warm and friendly

as a “kitchen.” Owned by Tim and Liza Goodell, it is their first venture

into the changing perception of Huntington Beach as an exciting evening

destination.

A square bar in the center with tall burgundy-colored ladder-back

chairs attracts many, but it is the Pan-Asian cuisine that gets our

attention as server Alison seats us at nearby black wooden tables. Red

Pearl has a “chatty” kind of a la carte chicken, beef and fish menu with

suggestions like “little dishes to share” or “big bowls and soups” served

on heavy, pottery-style dinner ware. Manager Joel Best says the

restaurant is striving for a “big city” look like a San Francisco or New

York bistro. A note “Have fun” on the menu sets the tone of Red Pearl.

From the daily specials, which range from Sunday’s wok-charred Maine

lobster to Saturday’s chipotle chicken adobo, I chose Tuesday’s crispy

Niman Ranch pork roasted on open flame ($14). The dish, which we shared,

had about 10 medium-sized pieces of tender pork with firm, thick skin in

an excellent soy ginger sauce topped with thread-thin rice noodles and

sprigs of aromatic cilantro. Chef Jeff Armstrong has a magic touch with

sauces -- they have a spicy after burn that lingers with each bite.

Unfortunately, no bread is served -- the sauce is the kind you really

want to sop up with pieces of good bread.

Barbecued salmon ($13) with a thick slice of roasted fresh pineapple,

which we also shared, is tender but firm and highly recommended along

with the large scoop of long thin rice noodles, cilantro and bits of

mandarin orange. If you desired a spicier taste, Alison had brought a

three-section plate of sauces -- one a peanut base, one a soy and onion

and one a red hot chile that challenged the heartiest tongue.

Manager Bess, who has been with Goodell’s other restaurants, Troquet

and Abergine, says you can skip the entrees and go straight to the

star-quality desserts of pastry chef Shelly Register. There’s Valrhona

Chocolate Souffle cake ($7), a muffin-sized cake filled with warm

chocolate sauce and flavored with espresso that oozes out as you fork the

cake. “Fabulous,” Alison said. Less rich, but also excellent is a

Caramelized Banana tart ($7), a firm biscuit bottom with lengthwise

slices of caramelized banana topped with a puff of real whipped cream.

Sadly no coffee is served, which would have made the desserts even

better.

According to manager Bess, the Goodell’s traveled to bistros in

several large cities to find a successful formula that would be suitable

for Huntington Beach, a community that they said “loves to eat out.” Bess

said that many patrons walk from nearby apartments, bring their friends

and enjoy the friendly “Cheers” type atmosphere.

The Red Pearl Kitchen is the new kid in town, joining other recently

opened restaurants in Downtown Huntington Beach.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail o7 hbindy@latimes.com.f7

FYI

WHAT: Red Pearl Kitchen

WHERE: 412 Walnut Ave.,HOURS: (Bar) 4:30-5:30 p.m. (food service) 5:30

p.m. untilmidnight. No reservations. Takeout available.

PHONE: (714) 969-0224