Dining out

Glori Fickling

When Laguna Beach residents recently received the colorful card from

Sorrento Grille & Martini Bar inviting them to their “Locals Only

Special” it was no time before the martini contingent hopped onto the

bargain, which offered: “Huge Locally Famous Martinis” for the

“way-too-cheap” price of $4.95, usually $9 to $11.

This translates to the full range of 13 different birdbath size

premium potables including the delectably intoxicating James Bond bounty

combining a potent pouring of Bombay Sapphire and Skyy vodka with a dash

each of Blond Lillet and Martini & Rossi dry vermouth. Wow!

Not to overlook the avid wine connoisseur, the invitation also

featured the same tag for a selection of fine wines by the glass, which

normally go for up to $9 per stem. Adding a complimentary basket of crisp

garlic potato chips to whet appetites, the word quickly spread to savvy

out of towners who now number among those joining the camaraderie to jam

the bar weekdays from 5 until 6:30 p.m. The inspiration of renowned

Principal David Wilhelm of Culinary Adventures notoriety and charming

general manager Lucy Delgadillo, the promotion was designed to celebrate

the commencement of daylight savings time and will continue until June

15th.

Enter the inviting two-story popular restaurant, peruse the menu of

contemporary American cuisine and know at once that Sorrento Grill and

Martini Bar, which was among the first locally to celebrate the

renaissance of the vintage cocktail, offers much beyond the magical

martini menu. With a bustling display kitchen behind the elongated bar it

is something of an entertainment to view creative executive chef Isidro

Zuniga and his dexterously proficient staff as they happily construct a

fascinating assemblage of attractively arranged plates.

Check the towering appetizer of proscuitto-wrapped shrimp topping a

cheddar potato cake drizzled with balsamic-honey; Maryland blue crab

cakes floating over red pepper aioli and warm corn relish; red chili,

cilantro and papaya relish complementing a roll of rare ahi, red onion

and spinach. Not to mention the superlative starter on a menu that

debuted this week listing velvety langoustine bisque punctuated with

succulent al dente shrimp and sweet corn kernels.

Imaginative entrees are equally enticing commencing with pan-seared

sea scallops wrapped in prosciutto atop asparagus with a side of pea and

corn risotto anointed with parmesan-sage brown butter.

A hefty slab of “pretty good meatloaf” tops a layering of yukon gold

mashed potatoes, sauteed spinach and sweet garlic sauce. Tuscan chicken

cooked “under the brick,” pepper-crusted salmon, rosemary grilled lamb

chops are also presented with deliciously compatible escorts.

They offer the superbly grilled duo of thick bone-in pork chops glazed

with balsamic and honey then contrasted for flavor and texture with

sweet-tart red cabbage and apples, horseradish wafted mashed potatoes and

creamy golden hued butternut squash.

To a mellow background of the inimitable Sinatra and similar soothing

sounds, Sorrento Grille features a copious selection of some 130 wines

plus another 11 whites and 16 reds, which are available by the glass and

bottle. Beginnings range from $6 to $13; pastas $16 to $19; entrees, $10 for an Angus sirloin burger on grilled focaccia with gorgonzola,

caramelized onions, arugula and herb fries, to $28 for rosemary grilled

lamb chops with cheddar potatoes, butternut squash and port/apricot/fig

sauce. Available at market price is charred rare ahi steak on crispy

risotto cake.

Sorrento Grille & Martini Bar

WHERE: 370 Glenneyre Street

HOURS: Open Nightly from 5 p.m.

PHONE: 494-8686