Dining Out

Mary Furr

Fourth of July, a uniquely American holiday, is a time to celebrate

with family and friends with barbecue topping the menu as the food of

choice. Be it a backyard, grassy park or sandy beach, it’s a time to

relax and let someone else do the work. Who better than Lou Gaydos, owner

and great cook of Lou’s Oak Oven Barbecue.

Lou’s, on the southwest corner of Brookhurst Street and Hamilton

Avenue in Huntington Beach, has chicken, beef and pork roasts turning on

spits in his now-double storefront -- all prepared “Santa Maria” style --

adapted from the method used by ranchers in the central California valley

in the 1800s.

Santa Maria style is different from what we recognize as barbecue. The

meat is roasted by spit or grill over the red oak wood found only in

central California. No marinade or sauce seasons the tri-tip sirloin

roast during cooking -- the only seasoning is the traditional rub of

garlic, salt and pepper blend. Lou prefers the rotisserie cooking method,

which seals in juices and flavor, resulting in a firm but tender roast.

Chicken and sausage are also prepared on the spit over red oak embers.

A combo of three slices of tri-tip beef and St. Louis style pork ribs

($14.99) is served with a choice of sides -- you must try the pinquito

beans, a hybrid small pink and kidney bean in a wonderful slow cooked

spicy sauce with bits of bacon and the bite of jalapenos.

The four flat ribs are dark with barbecue sauce and meaty. They have

absorbed the sauce and glisten with temptation. Tri-tip is a tender but

lean, firm cut of roast offered in three slices cooked to medium

perfection -- delicious with the zesty salsa of diced tomato, onion,

cilantro and spices. A small cup of the dark thick barbecue sauce is also

served -- good to add to the meat and also to dip thick slices of garlic

bread in. Lou’s is a place that celebrates good eating as witnessed by

the room full of men at lunch one day -- no delicate salad-eating ladies

here.

A more conventional selection is pork loin roast ($10.99) with

delicious mashed potatoes, smooth brown gravy and chunky apple sauce on

the side with cole slaw as the extra choice. The medium thick slices of

pork roast, which had been roasted for three and a half hours, were very

tender and lean with a seductive flavor that must have come with the

elusive red oak smoke.

Portuguese immigrants who settled in the area have influenced the

cooking and seasoning that became part of the Santa Maria tradition. A

wonderful variation from beef, served at Lou’s is linguica. Grilled over

red oak, this spicy Portuguese sausage spurts juice when cut and goes

perfectly with the beans and garlic bread ($10.49).

Everything is made right here including the desserts -- our pie was a

warm peach ($2.49) with two scoops of vanilla bean ice cream ($.99) --

warm fruit, crumbly crust and cool ice cream -- a great combo.

Lou offers some good bargains like prime rib weekends (Friday,

Saturday and Sunday) ($14.99), with prime rib au jus, baked potato and

soup, salad or cold slaw. Children under 12 get a break, too, with a

choice of six entrees ($5.99) including turkey, chicken, ribs or tri tip.

For the Fourth of July there will be a takeout special -- ribs ($17),

whole chicken ($7.95), tri-tip whole roast ($16). Quarts of salad, slaw

and pinquito ($5.99). By ordering ahead, all you have to do is drop by

between 9 a.m. and noon to pick up your whole celebration package.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail o7 hbindy@latimes.com.f7

FYI

WHAT: Lou’s Oak Oven Barbecue

WHERE: 21501-D Brookhurst Street, Huntington Beach.

PHONE: (714) 965-5200.

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 9:30 p.m. Friday and

Saturday. Closed Monday. Credit cards accepted.