Dining Out

Mary Furr

Scattered throughout Huntington Beach are some great neighborhood

parks. But the gem of them all is Central Park, off Edwards Street at

Central Park Drive. In this jogger’s paradise, one path leads right to

heaven -- the little red cottage that houses Alice’s Breakfast in the

Park cafe.

Outside are tables facing a lake, a wide parade ground for fat ducks

and geese to strut and preen their glossy feathers and a takeout window

dispensing luscious baked-on-the-premises cinnamon nut rolls for hungry

joggers and bags of crumbs to feed the ducks.

Alice Gustafson opened Breakfast in the Park 22 years ago and has

filled the 10-table cafe with an amazing collection of memorabilia that

hangs from the peaked ceiling in fancy bird cages, and are displayed from

lighted cabinets loaded with stuffed animals and gorgeous dolls to

delight the child in all of us.

But it is the varied selection of breakfast items that really gets our

attention -- everything from simple oatmeal ($3) and biscuit with gravy

($3.75) to the creative build your own omelet ($6.50).

The “Breakfast in the Park” selection ($4.50) gave me a just-right

“over easy” egg with runny yoke but firm white, two crisp, well-done

bacon strips and a pile of four pancakes with a smiley face impressed on

the top one (kids will love this). The pancakes are light in texture but

substantial and satisfying. This will keep you going well into lunch.

Eggs Benedict ($7.25) is the most popular breakfast selection

according to Linda Lemaster, the owner and Alice’s daughter. It’s a two

poached egg affair on top of ham and Swiss cheese and homemade sourdough

bread all covered with a rich creamy hollandaise sauce.

Huevos Rancheros ($6.25) has corn tortillas, two eggs (over medium)

smothered with chile salsa and cheese. It’s served with flour tortillas.

There isn’t much Alice doesn’t do with eggs or other breakfast items.

Just ask.

If breakfast for you slips into lunch there are some grill selections

that are very good. The six long fingers of Icelandic cod ($7.75) have a

crisp, seasoned egg batter and some fantastic, round as silver dollars

potato slices that are like fat potato chips -- a cross between French

fries and chips -- different and habit forming. Everything at Alice’s is

based on family recipes with a distinctive individual taste reminiscent

of some selections from her father John Gustafson who owned The End Cafe

on the Huntington Beach Pier.

Alice’s daughter, Mary Beth Pierce, is the baker of the family and her

cinnamon rolls ($2.50 each, 1/2 dozen $13) are spirals of dough brushed

with cinnamon, filled with nuts and drenched with vanilla icing that

covers the saucer. This is the dream breakfast for those who don’t eat

the breakfast Mom thought you should. Ask for extra nuts ($.25) to

sprinkle over the whole thing.

Alice’s Breakfast in the Park is like a hidden cottage that you could

have dreamed about as a child -- filled with toys and drenched in the

aroma of oven-baked sweets.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail o7 hbindy@latimes.com.f7

FYI

WHAT: Alice’s Breakfast in the Park

WHERE: 6622 Lakeview Drive (off Edwards at Central Park Drive),

Huntington Beach.

HOURS: 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

PHONE: (714) 848-0690.

Reservation suggested. Cash and local personal checks only. No credit

cards. Small gift shop.