Villa Romana keeps the ambience Italian

Dining Out

This charming trattoria in Downtown Laguna Beach, launched in

March 1993, is among some half dozen survivors of the era when

Italian restaurants had reached a local crescendo.

On the brink of a 10th anniversary, the dedicated husband/wife

team, Fernanda and Angelo Capraro, who met in their native Monte

Cassino as children, have much to celebrate.

Their two-story Villa Romana, which offers delightful upstairs

terrace dining during the current summer season, has surpassed their

reputation for authentic Italian cuisine. Full cocktail service and

occasional live entertainment have given a festive added dimension to

dining here.

It is the fascinating family recipes prepared by the creative

Fernanda, however, which keeps a dedicated clientele coming back for

more. Beyond the assorted appetizers, pastas, pizzas, risottos and

entrees offered, this tireless restaurateur bakes fragrant loaves of

bread and plump rounds of focaccia every morning after which she

prepares a mouth-watering array of luscious cookies and cakes.

With a bustling crew carrying out her many recipes inside an open

kitchen behind the cozy bar, Fernanda can be seen dispensing birdbath

martinis, wines and assorted potables all the while welcoming guests.

Where to start after perusing the menu is a challenge. You long

for pasta? The signature dishes of veal ravioli in a creamy blend of

porcini mushrooms with fresh spinach and the wonderful lobster

ravioli crowned with crunchy shrimp attest to Fernanda’s unique

approach to pastas. Priced from $9.95 to $18.95.

Pizza is your current craving? Among 10 toppings are such

unconventional offerings as grilled zucchini, eggplant, tomato,

peppers, cheese, sundried tomatoes, pesto and mozzarella. There is

also a cheeseless version crowned with mussels, calamari, seafood and

spicy tomato sauce. These are $8.95 to $11.95.

Villa Romana notes the exclusive use of Turner New Zealand

free-range meats, the basis of several entrees including a tender

venison filet seasoned with garlic and rosemary. There is a

rack-of-veal in garlic, rosemary, olive oil, cabernet sauce and a

rack-of-lamb with a rosemary wine marinade. There is a quartet of

other veal preparations, a trio of chicken offerings plus grilled

jumbo prawns atop lemon-scented linguini. Pasta pomodoro and fresh

vegetables accompany these at $13.95 to $22.95, a basket of those

wonderful breads is hastened to your table upon seating.

When the dessert tray arrives, don’t miss the tangy lemon

tiramisu, Fernanda’s favorite to enjoy with a cup of imported

Costadoro coffee from Italy.

You should also come for the Sinatra-like renditions of Dr. Louis

Bennett on vocals and keyboard with singer Frank Mambria and

host-vocalist Angelo Capraro on the last Saturday of each month. For

further entertainment, make a reservation for Opera Night every third

Monday of the month.

On Wednesday, Aug. 21, the boundless hostess/chef/mixologist

offers a complimentary invitation to her cooking classes at

Bloomingdale’s in Fashion Island. She will be baking lemon breakfast

cookies at the 11 a.m. session. Penne pasta with fresh tomatoes in a

refreshingly light summer creation will be featured at the 3 p.m.

class. Information: (949) 497-6220.

* Glori Fickling is a Laguna Beach resident. She writes

restaurant reviews for the Coastline Pilot.