A good way to begin the day is at Harry’s Grill

DINING OUT

Harry’s Grill on Pacific Coast Highway at 17th Street in Sunset

Beach attracts an eclectic group for breakfast. Open at 7 a.m., just

a jogger’s run from the sand, you find tourists from the nearby

motels, neighbors from the beachside homes and surfers from the

Pacific. They all have found their way to Harry’s.

Owned by Deno Boosalis and named for his dad, Harry’s serves one

breakfast special ($3.99) that takes two platters to deliver it to

the table. For generosity, you’d find it hard to beat two long, crisp

slices of bacon, two fat, well-browned sausages with three eggs any

style nestled next to a serving of crunchy hash brown potatoes. That

was just one hot platter. On the other were two big pancakes dripping

butter and a small cup of maple syrup.

Harry’s is an order-at-the-counter cafe where you’ll be given a

cup for your coffee to fill, while entrees come to the table. It’s

informal and the menu is displayed over the order counter, but the

best bets are the specials on easels like mine, served from 7:30 to

10:30 a.m. Monday through Friday. Another one was three eggs, hash

browns and toast. Chef Jose Martinez has a light hand with the

generous serving of fluffy golden yellow scrambled eggs, crusty hash

browns and toast ($2.19). For a little more, you can add four slices

of bacon. A French toast combo comes in at $4.69, but for the big

eater there is steak and eggs for $5.29.

The atmosphere is casual at Harry’s, there’s a TV, but the sound

is low and there was no loud music to jar early morning nerves. Read

your paper, drink your coffee and enjoy.

“It’s so good at Harry’s even relatives eat here,” said a

gentleman at the counter as he gave his order to his nephew Chris

Boosalis, who manages for his dad.

The dining area is a mix of booths near the door with banquettes

angled across the center of the room and tables for four toward the

Pacific Coast Highway window side. If you’d like a view of the ocean,

there is upstairs dining.

Though Harry’s Grill may seem small as you enter, there is enough

seating, and if you are in a hurry there is a drive-through window so

you can soon be on your way to battle morning traffic with a cup of

coffee and a full stomach.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

hbindy@latimes.com.